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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

frankxinyu Mentor

frankxinyu

Posted
Posted

i dont know if im the only one here, but i think Motul 4100 or 300v dont really suite street use....

the car runs like a pig when the oil is cold, and it never used to do it when i had castrol in it.......so maybe the oil is too thick???

i dont know. i do get heaps of oil pressure( sometimes it nearly reaches 8 bar).

anyone had the same experience???

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Oil in no way can make the car run like a pig. :(

Its a coincidence.

Mine no matter what oil I run hits slightly over 8kg cm2 on the stock gtst guage. Well I lie, the castrol 5w30 would sit just under the 8kgcm2 line.

At full throttle it hits 6.5ish, I forget exactly but it is high.

frankxinyu Mentor

frankxinyu

Posted
Posted

yeah, i only get the 8bar when it is cold.

by saying its runs like a pig, it rattles at cold, sounds like not enough oil going through. but when the oil heats up, it runs perfectly.....

when i had thinner oil, it was good on both cold and hot....

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
PS Remember $49 for D1 at Motrex. Unbeatable!

i got d1 here in sydney from the mobil distributor, works out just over $59 a bottle, i got ripped! maybe next time ill mail order some over from motorex might work out cheaper.

59 was also the 'bulk' price, i should have paid about $65 per bottle but i got the discount by being friendly.

since i have put it in the only difference i see is the oil seems to warm up quicker (than motul 4100) the weather has warmed up a bit too so it may only be due to that and not the oil. (i think the d1 is a bit thinner?)

  • 2 weeks later...
QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted

Hey Fellas, after hours of reading and researching i am LOST!!! On first service, I used Castrol R and wasn't anything special... then on my second service my mate who owns a spare parts shop recommended i use Nulon 10W40 Fully Synth Oil ($50/5L)... The car felt much smoother in acceleration than the Castrol... But i heard the Castrol EDGE is supposed to be much better...

post-23753-1157726715.jpg

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=syn10w40

What you think about Nulon Oil? What group is it?

I'm tossing up between either:

- Castrol EDGE 0W40 ($70/5L @ Supercheap)

- Nulon 10W40 ($50/5L @ Mates shop)

- Mobil 1 0W40 ($50/5L @ Supercheap)

Car: R33 RB25DET, 70,000kms, Daily driving, ocassional run...

Please Help!!

Cheers,

Sarkis

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
- Castrol EDGE 0W40 ($70/5L @ Supercheap)

- Nulon 10W40 ($50/5L @ Mates shop)

- Mobil 1 0W40 ($50/5L @ Supercheap)

Car: R33 RB25DET, 70,000kms, Daily driving, ocassional run...

Please Help!!

Cheers,

Sarkis

I would say, go for the Mobil 1 0w40. Best deal then the rest propose above.

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Thanks Trex... seems like the way to go... Any other opinions?

What you guys think about NULON??

Cheers,

Sarkis

Got no idea about the engine oil but the engine oil additives looks dodgy. How can PTFE is used in the engine oil? Sound like a "Slick 50" type of advertising to me.

More information on PTFE in engine oil.

PTFE

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
So why would you choose Mobil 1 over Castrol EDGE? What are the benifits/differences?

Cheers,

Sarkis

Both M1 0w40 & Castrol 0w40 are group IV PAO base but M1 reputation is better with track/race proven and the oil is $20 cheaper. It's a no brainer... Go with M1 0w40.

SLYLNE Rising Star

SLYLNE

Posted
Posted

ok guys, need to clear one thing up..i spoke to a mate about engine oil. he states that, as a car gets older, or as it becomes more worn and torn, the engine needs thicker oils.

now, he says 5/40- 10/40 and the rest of em are the sorts of oils you would use in brand new cars with out much wear..

i hav been putting penzoil 20 50 in my rb25 and hav had no dramas for the past few years..

now this is my question!!...why is everyone putting such thin oil into these liners, which are 5-15 yrz old now.. should u be putting thicker oils as the kms tick over?

please clarify this, or better improve my understanding. cheers :P

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
ok guys, need to clear one thing up..i spoke to a mate about engine oil. he states that, as a car gets older, or as it becomes more worn and torn, the engine needs thicker oils.

now, he says 5/40- 10/40 and the rest of em are the sorts of oils you would use in brand new cars with out much wear..

i hav been putting penzoil 20 50 in my rb25 and hav had no dramas for the past few years..

now this is my question!!...why is everyone putting such thin oil into these liners, which are 5-15 yrz old now.. should u be putting thicker oils as the kms tick over?

please clarify this, or better improve my understanding. cheers :P

Generally not true, it's the condition of your engine that determine the viscosity needed, not numbers of years. In fact if you have taken care of your engine using quality synthetic, you shouldn't be seeing much engine wear.

FYI, I'm using 5w20 oil for my 130k puny honda engine and it doesn't consume a single drop of oil. The engine pull even stronger than when i first get it at 16k mileage.

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