Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

performancelub.com... when i search it on google comes up with 'this site may harm your computer' under the name.. and is listed on google as having software that can harm your computer haha.. can anyone shed some light?

Due to the price of it I've always wondered if the turbolight semi-synthetic is similiar to that of the grpIII synthetics (castrol etc) that are not really synthetics. :thumbsup:

Could be......

I did a scan with my anti-virus and come up with nothing, it's safe going into this site. no problem.

oh, you could email Harold at [email protected] if you have any enquiry, he quite a helpful chap who will try to answer your questions.

Guys, sorry if this has been covered (not going thru 11ty billion pages), I just wanted to get an idea of what people think of Castrol Edge 10w-60?

For a 1990 R32 GTR with ~120k on the dial.

Been recommended to me by a reputable workshop, they use it on heaps of their cars.

Cheers!

Dan :rant:

Just spoke to Fuel Direct where i got my last lot of Delvac 1, price has gone up from $180 for 3x5L to $230+ delivery.

Also called Motorex in SA (saw that others have ordered from there) and they said they dont sell Mobil anymore, only Valvoline.

Looks like cheapest group IV oil is now Motul 8100 assuming you can still get it for $59. I think ill go have look for that this weekend.

Does anyone know where to get Delvac for around $60/5L anymore? Any good deals in Sydney right now?

  • 2 weeks later...
Guys, sorry if this has been covered (not going thru 11ty billion pages), I just wanted to get an idea of what people think of Castrol Edge 10w-60?

For a 1990 R32 GTR with ~120k on the dial.

Been recommended to me by a reputable workshop, they use it on heaps of their cars.

Cheers!

Dan :P

Anyone?

:)

maybe we should just do a poll....or something like that.

10w-60 seems like too wide a spread. most recommendations are aound 10w-40, 15w-40 or even 5w-30.

put it this way, how important is the health of your engine? if you don't push your engine all that hard, you should be pretty right with regular run of the mill oils.

however most people agree that fully synthetics are the way to go for hi-power engines that are 'opened up' on a regular basis.

motul chrono and redline are two oils that seem to be trusted by almost everyone, however they're expensive, soooo to answer your question (sorry i work for the govt so i like to run around in circles confusing people before i actually get to the point and even then it probably doesn't actually answer your question but by then you're over it and just nod and say ok and leave) i think i've seen fairly low opinions of castrol edge on this thread. although i THINK (don't quote me) sydney kid uses castrol products on his track car.

or you might want to type the word castrol down in the left corner there

Edited by made_guy

How about Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w30 oil? would that be better then the Redline 10w40 oil? i pay about 82 dollars for 5 litres of the mobil one, my engine has done around 60 000kms ish so yeah which is the better oil to use?

sorry if it has been covered

Cheers

Chi

How about Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w30 oil? would that be better then the Redline 10w40 oil? i pay about 82 dollars for 5 litres of the mobil one, my engine has done around 60 000kms ish so yeah which is the better oil to use?

sorry if it has been covered

Cheers

Chi

Redline is better cos its ester based group 5 oil. Mobile 1 is synthetic too but belongs to group IV as it does not have ester.

Mind you I might try Mobile 1 myself at the next service... i just cant convince to spend over 200 bucks for an oil change when my car does not see the track and is stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...