Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

We all know that Motul 300V is grade V and its one of the "best" but at over $120 per oil change, I just cant afford it.

So, I've since used Nulon Fast Flow 10W-40... and it seemed okay.

I've been reading this shit so much and could never make up my mind... there was just too much hearsay.

So I took the liberty to call some oil manufacturers to get some facts:

Nulon - all their fast flow oils are group III and they dont make any group IV's, so its not a "real" synthetic

Castrol Edge 5W30 is a group III, the 0W40 is the only group IV in their range

So Nulon 10W40 was $68 for 5L (group III)

Castrol Edge 0W40 $68 for 5L also (group IV)

I think i know which one i'll be buying... anyways, just my oppinion, backed up by some facts from the manufactuer

:) Frak my ole boots , I've been using Nulon 10x40 Hi Tech Fast Flow since I bought the car /for the last 7 months/3 oil changes on the asumption that the FULLY SYNTHETIC printed on the bottle was the truth--and it's bullshit--this oil is a mineral oil derivative--I just phoned Nu-frakin-lon and confirmed this , no frakin wonder it ages so quickly.

IT'S DINO ALL THE WAY and it wont be going in my frakin engine again--and niether will any other friken nu-ferkin-lon product. :(

SO THERE !

:(

Now the never ending question--What oil--?

gee after reading most of this everyone is going to want to kill me haha, iv been runing Penrite HPR10 in my 1996 r33 gtst sinice i bought it 3 years ago, and have been changeing it every 10'000km's

not ever 5k like most seem to do, i do alot of freeway driving and lot of km's a year so didnt want an overly pricey oil, thou now i have a 1994 falcon work horse so the r33 is gona get some nice expensive royal purple, or

motul fully synthetic oil :) .

but even with that, iv never had a problem with hpr10, always stable oil presures, never burns any oil what so ever, even after a good hard tharshing at the strips

Now the never ending question--What oil--?

http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Sougi%20S%206000.html

Thanks to Birds I'm converted. After 3000k's the oil still looks good and could well be the best $80 for 5 litres I ever spent.

http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Sougi%20S%206000.html

Thanks to Birds I'm converted. After 3000k's the oil still looks good and could well be the best $80 for 5 litres I ever spent.

I live on the Gold Coast where can I get this from Autobarn, Cheaper Autos wherever ? don't recall seeing Gulf Western anywhere-- mind you I wasn't looking -- :)

I live on the Gold Coast where can I get this from Autobarn, Cheaper Autos wherever ? don't recall seeing Gulf Western anywhere-- mind you I wasn't looking -- :)

http://www.autopro.com.au/products/product-range.html

Got mine from these guys or you could PM user "Birds". He's post #1171 page 59 in this thread.

Complete nooblet here. What oil should I be using for my 32GTR? Made 356rwhp on 16psi and with tune should hit at least 400.

Also, it needs a few more L than normal cause its got a thingy :). The oil gets relocated from the bottom to the top to try and stop the self starvation during motorsport.

Finally, my mates for a 33GTR making around 270-280awhp. What should he use?

Thanks guys.

Edited by Ten Four

what viscoscity oil should i use for a RB25DET gearbox? does this vary with the age/kilometers the box has done?

just destroyed mine, thinking it may have been wrong oil...either way i dont have third gear :D

Wrong oil wont kill a box (unless you are using engine or diff oil by accident). My mate ran no oil for about 700kms in his rx2, was noisy as hell but it didn't die and is going strong now that its filled up.

yeah, mine was making noise for a while, yet to take it out of the car but im guessing either;

A. the fluid leaked out

B. diff oil may have been used, i remember something about ATF tho...

initially thought it was the thrust bearing, but after this im guessing it was the box. one of those things you learn i guess.

I have been using motul turbo light 10-40w in my car since forever. Have read this thread before and I remember many people suggesting oils and then others bagging out said suggested oil. So i decided to go onto the Nismo website and they recomend a 15w-50w http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html . Also when I was at BEL garage the other day with the ITR he said that 10-40w is too thin for RB engines and agrees that 15-50 is on the mark. Could he be right?

Edit:

HKS also recomend 15-55w for RB engines.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/superoil/index.html

(scroll to bottom of page).

Edited by Jez13
I have been using motul turbo light 10-40w in my car since forever. Have read this thread before and I remember many people suggesting oils and then others bagging out said suggested oil. So i decided to go onto the Nismo website and they recomend a 15w-50w http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html . Also when I was at BEL garage the other day with the ITR he said that 10-40w is too thin for RB engines and agrees that 15-50 is on the mark. Could he be right?

Edit:HKS also recomend 15-55w for RB engines.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/superoil/index.html

(scroll to bottom of page).

:) 4lt of the HKS 15x55 = JPY9975 = AUS$124.395c , change every 3000ks.

I thought the 10 x 40 would be ideal for everyday Australian conditions given that Nissans spec is 7.5x30 AFAIK , so what is actualy in the Nissan bottles ?? and is 15x50 a race floging only spec ?

thats what everyone has been saying anyway. Not sure whether to trust nissan australia's understanding of the rb engines though. I am thinking of trying the nismo oil out. 3,000k service is fine by me as I will probably take 2 years to get that amount lol.

I didn't consider that oil viscosities varied on ambient conditions. I shall do some more investigations.

Edited by Jez13
I have been using motul turbo light 10-40w in my car since forever. Have read this thread before and I remember many people suggesting oils and then others bagging out said suggested oil. So i decided to go onto the Nismo website and they recomend a 15w-50w http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html . Also when I was at BEL garage the other day with the ITR he said that 10-40w is too thin for RB engines and agrees that 15-50 is on the mark. Could he be right?

Edit:

HKS also recomend 15-55w for RB engines.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/superoil/index.html

(scroll to bottom of page).

Thats exactly what I was told by my mechanic. I was running 10W40 Royal Purple thinking it was the right weight and after one of my tunes he told me it was too thin for an rb26 and recommended to start using Castrol Edge 10w60 or something of similar weight, but because of Castrol's price its the way to go compared to Motul or similar and performs very well compared to some expensive ones. This is coming from a very highly regarded workshop so I think that its right.

Since then I have done some research and it seems like that alot of RB tuners recommend heavier oils and its all around 50-60 weight. I have been running it on Castrol Edge 10w60 for 2 years now and no problems at all it really seems to like it, and its around $75 for 5 litres. Its also advertised on their website that its recommended for GTR's. I would happily run Motul, infact its my prefered choice but its more than twice the price of Edge and I dont think its that much better to pay more that double for it. Paying close to $200 for oil and filter change every 5000k is way too expensive for me. If money is no problem go the Motul for sure its awesome oil.

I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere that Nismo oil is rebranded Motul 300v Competition 15w50 but with a bigger price tag it even has a Motul written on the bottle, so you might want to think about getting the Motul instead.

Cheers

Edited by miran1313

These 15x50 -10x60 weights all seem to be aimed at RB26s, GTRs and modded cars that likely get a flogin, hows about the RB25s like mine that dosen't get pushed around much atall ?

I'm pissed with all oil brands ATM as none of the claimed synthetics, except Castrol, AFAIK, are actualy synthetic, they are all dino deridatives refined in the synthetic manner whatever the frak that means.

Silly me, they're oil companys, it means more $ for less :thumbsup:

These 15x50 -10x60 weights all seem to be aimed at RB26s, GTRs and modded cars that likely get a flogin, hows about the RB25s like mine that dosen't get pushed around much atall ?

I'm pissed with all oil brands ATM as none of the claimed synthetics, except Castrol, AFAIK, are actualy synthetic, they are all dino deridatives refined in the synthetic manner whatever the frak that means.

Silly me, they're oil companys, it means more $ for less :thumbsup:

Yeh thats right mate they are aimed at RB26's and I was talking about them, i'm not sure about RB25's I dont think they would need to be that thick especially if only street driven and lightly modded, I think 10w40 would be about right.

Tell me about it, who the hell knows whats in them every second oil has synthetic written on it. Its such complex shit that its not that easy to work out whats good and whats not. I have read that there are hydroprocessed syhthetic oils (ultra refined mineral oil, group 3) that work as good or better than oils that are pure synthetic (PAO, group 4). Apparently mixes of several bases produces the best product, so you tell me which is the best oil out there and whats in it. People here talk about only using pure synthetic oil and that Motul 300v is 100% ester based etc, but they use Ester, PAO and Group 3 base stock to give the best product which is still a 100% synthetic oil. Motul says that they use double ester technology not that its mainly based on ester, apparently it contains between 20% to 30% ester. There are plenty of oils out there that are labeled 100% synthetic but all are blends of Ester/PAO/AN/GP3 or something similar which are still 100% synthetic and very good oils. Motul 300v in my opinion is still pretty much on top of list with Redline of the best oil's out there, because of their reputation and so many satisfied users out there, but it just shows that its very complicated with how they are made and advertised its not as simple as some might think.

Edited by miran1313

i just purchased 6 litres of Neo Racing engine oil

10w-40 100% synthetic diester base

a reputable workshop put me on to this guy who sells it, i payed $160 for 6 litres (1x5litres and 1x1litre)

is apparently used in nascar, f1 etc. Made in USA

Neo has also helped set land speed records - including the fastest Harley Davidson (set at Bonneville). NEO helped Dale Armstrong engines set their hall of fame records. Over 50% of the European Formula 1 cars use some type of NEO product, and NEO helped the Draco team win two GM Lotus Euro Series Championships. By 1987, every Indy Car that ran a March Engineering Gear Box at Indy use the gear oils and CV joint lubrications developed by NEO.

www.neosyntheticoil.com

expensive stuff, but you get what you pay for, costs the same as 6liters of motul 300v chrono...nufin but the best goes into my RB26, better spend abit extra and put the best oil in the engine...

:) Thought this might help those wantin to splurge,

NEO OIL - Australia

99 Bathhurst st

Sydney NSW 2000

Tel: 61-0 416 267 645

Fax: 61-2 9316 5480.

:P Me , Ive just changed my oil for Penrite HPR+10 (10X50) Semi Synthetic cost $39.98 +$12.00 for an OE filter.

I'm sick to the back teeth with the oil bullshit, I change my oil every 3 to 4 months, I don't flog or track my car , except for the exhaust it's stock and don't put more than 3000Ks on it in that period.

Whilst wanting to keep a high standard of maintenance I'm not going to give those farkin lying cheating bastard oil companys one friken cent I don't have to.

If I was going to pound the crap out of my ride I'd maybe start singing a different tune.

Just a couple of observations , the holes in the OE filter are quite small I wonder if this is a flow restriction effort ? I'm thinking that they were larger some time ago ??

Whilst Nissan still refuse to tell me what the recomended oil should be I noticed that two grades of Nissan oils were available for petrol engines a 7.5x30 and a 20x50, with the recent 15x55 15x50 HKS and Nismo racing recomendations makes you wonder ????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...