Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
for a near stock r33 gts-t 88,000ks. what would be a better choice, nulon 10W40 syn or penrite 5W40 semi syn

I ran Penrite HPR10 which is 10-50 with 80k on the clock. Was terrible in my car and felt too thick both at cold and hot temperatures. Then switched to GW Sougi S6000 and it felt perfect. Not all weights are the same from brand to brand, and what ingredients are used also plays a part.

So it all comes down to what you want to spend. Nulon regardless of their claims is only a semi synthetic. If I were to ever try Penrite again, I might be tempted to try their 10w40 Everyday Synthetic oil. But there are better options out there. For the price you are so much better off trying to locate some Sougi from a GW distributor. Otherwise you could try using Motul 4100 Turbolight which is a 10w40 semi synthetic oil. A lot of people use that with great results.

If you don't have hours of time, then read the last 30 odd pages of this thread and you'll be so much more the wiser. You'll not only find out things you wanted to know, but also understand things you weren't yet at the point of even knowing to ask.

Matt R34 Contributor

Matt R34

Posted
Posted

What is the best oil to put in a R34 GTT Manual 5spd gearbox? It is a road car which is occasionally taken onto the track.

The reason i ask is because 3000km ago when i had the major service done, the mechanic changed my gearbox oil and i think he put some castrol brand oil in it, and it has felt awful ever since.

I have been doing some reading and Motul seems to be the best bet, but what type? I live in Sydney and drive the car in the mornings when it is extremely cold, and the current oil takes forever to warm up, which is resulting in a whistling noise coming up through my trans tunnel. I'm thinking the oil is too thick.

Also looking at some oil for the engine aswell, i've been reading this thread but all the different opinions have started to do my head in :D The engine is the Neo RB25DET, minor work done to it, the Motul oil perk of only having to change every 10,000km seems pretty good, but i have had people whom i know in real life telling me that Penrite & Mobil are good brands aswell? I was just wondering if anyone has an idea of what i should be using. I seem to have discovered 10w40 is the best viscosity by reading this thread.

And if you live in the Syd area, what reseller do you recommend to make this purchase.

Thanks in advance for the help :)

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

hey mate, yeah 10w40 for the engine, and either motul 8100, 300V or turbolight 4100, royal purple, sougi s6000 or m5000 (if you can find some) all seem to get good ratings. some people prefer the mobil 1 0w40 etc, but each to their own.

on the gearbox oil, im changing mine today with castrox vmx-m 75w85 with a small bottle of the nulon g70 additive. wanted to go pentire sin75 but out of my pricerange for a little while...

im sure birds will respond, how will the vmx-m go?

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
Anyone here heard of <a href="http://"http://www.mainlube.com/cms/"" target="_blank">mainlube</a>?

They look pretty impressive to me, better than royal purple etc.

What a horrid website that is. Went there to have a look and ended up just clicking the back button and getting out of there.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

i think you need to make a distinction between what RP 'offers'.

RP has a Group V oil, XPR i believe, which is the Redline/Motul 300V competitor i suppose, and there is a Group IV (and i think some groupIII mixed in) oil, which is more the standard one at a good price point.

I haven't used XPR because it's $$$, i have used the normal one.

I stick with the yank ones as they are ok with Ethanol/Methanol. But apparently the Sougi Group V is ok with ethanol as well????

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

I had someone with an E85 running Stagea come in the other day and buy a box of Sougi off me. They were certain it would be fine for alcohol so I'd say it is, but I can't find anything specific about it on the GW website.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Last I heard about Sougi, what's left is the last of it unless they decide to produce another batch. So yes, buy up. I've got 3-4 boxes stored away just for me :whoops:

Will PM you Daniel.

Also, M5000 is still running no complaints and we're coming up to almost 4000km with a track day and fair bit of hard driving thrown into the mix. I'll have no issue making the switch to the superseder and cheaper Syn-X if it is indeed as good or better than M5000.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
anyone else had experience with the HRP10 in there rb25dets?

Yes it's not good oil for the RB25. It felt too thick when cold, and took ages to get up to temperature. Car felt sluggish as well. Also noticed a very pronounced tappet noise when using this oil.

I ditched HPR10 and went to Sougi S 6000. Since it's going out of production soon, either grab some now, M 5000 or if money isn't a problem go with Motul or Royal Purple.

The weight is important though. HPR10 is 10w50, but even the 10 part doesn't feel right with that oil. 10w40 is a good oil weight for the RB25 so try and go with that weight of oil in one of the above mentioned brands.

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have been running the Nulon 10W40 "full synthetic" which I know is not a full synthetic. Seems to be ok. Have done 2500ks on it so far. want to change it early this time to flush the motor out as the oil was dirty when I bought it.

What do people think of this oil? I can get it for $45 for 5lts so I bought it based partially on a good price

Not I change the oil with filter (drift brand) at 5000 k or less and the car is daily driven (so it only gets a squirt now and then)

Edited by TUF250
SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

if you keep good track of when you change your oil, nulon will be fine. You'll just have to be a little extra careful with your intervals and any hard driving. It will breakdown quicker than the true synthetics, but at 5K km intervals, you'll be fine :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...