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How many of you guys get oil analysis done to see which oils are working better and how well they are lasting?

Would be good to see instead of a lot of the anecdotal evidence that I read on here, not saying the oils are bad or people are wrong just that it'd be interesting.

I would like to do this next oil change, but I hardly do any km so its not worth doing yet :ermm:

I cannot recall what the cheap website was that was $30 or similar for the UOA.

Yep, definitely depends on the tolerances. Run in with something thick like a 20w50. After that, switch to something thin, it's always better to start thin and go from there...if she's burning oil then step up the viscosity a bit. The person who built the engine would be best to advise this though, of you are concerned about it.

S 6000 for a staff discounted $45? Must be on clearance cause they've stopped making it :ermm:

Nah Galois I haven't heard anything about the replacement, although you can get Syn-X 10w40 (30% syn) now, which is their most popular oil (therefore won't be going anywhere unless GW does).

Birds ,or anyone else willing to give some advice.

I will import a 2001 M35 Stagea with 115,000 on the clock .

I have no idea of the service or driving history from Japan,

but my guess is there must have been a lot of stop start driving. it wont have been driven for 6 months when I get it.

How should l I approach the oil change and what initial oil should I put in it.

In Brisbane I was expecting to run a 10w -40w Royal Purple but don't want to be dumping

an expensive synthetic oil if the advice is to clean the engine out over a few oil changes.

I will also eventually install an oil by pass filter .

Edited by samuri

Hi samuri...I would do a major service on the vehicle as soon as it lands in Australia, particularly if you don't know the service history. Timing belt, water pump etc.

But yeah, change the oil as soon as you can for a mineral 15w40 / semi 10w40 and run that for a thousand km or so...then chuck in the Royal Purple. You don't need to flush a vehicle as extensively as Galois did unless the engine is really dirty like his was.

Hey,

Just would like to know, the best Oil for my R33 GTR, and where abouts I could grab a bottle or two from (Melbourne, Northern Suburbs)

Thanks heaps in advanced.

Forgot to mention, its a fresh import currently sitting at 70,xxx and sorta in the same boat as Samuri

Edited by kinggtr

for both you guys (samuri and kinggtr) i woulg just grab the sougi s6000

its a good oil up there with the royal purple etc but so much cheaper and australian owned (i think)

put one lot in (~$60, just call gulf western and ask for a distributer in your area, autobarn and supercheap will be able to get it for you but you will pay rrp + freight)

leave it in there and check it every week, it'l start going black pretty quick, but its not breaking down, just dissolving the sludge in your motor (good oils go black quicker cos they are doing something, a cheap oil will look about the same colour after 5000kms)

once its fairly dark, change it

you'll get 2 changes out of the sougi to what you will out of the royal purple

Just went and got some Motul 8100 as recomended by most members here, and a Drift oil filter over the ryco(no k&N in stock) Autobahn. Noticed its 5-40 and not the 10-40 that i was looking for in an oil. Will this be fine for street use? The current nissan oils only about 2500km old so I thought it would be a good idea to change it now while its still half ok and not too dirty for the 8100. Just taking extra precautions as this is my first oil change for this car :P

Just went and got some Motul 8100 as recomended by most members here, and a Drift oil filter over the ryco(no k&N in stock) Autobahn. Noticed its 5-40 and not the 10-40 that i was looking for in an oil. Will this be fine for street use? The current nissan oils only about 2500km old so I thought it would be a good idea to change it now while its still half ok and not too dirty for the 8100. Just taking extra precautions as this is my first oil change for this car :P

It'll be fine mate, i liked 8100 when I used it, noticably better than the nulon I had before it (though that was semi-synth, despite what the packet says).

5w and 10w refer to the cold viscosity of the oil, the higher the number, the thicker the oil. The important thing to remember is that from start up they're both converging in viscosity to become a w40, so they're getting closer and closer. Another thing is companies don't publish 7w or 9w, they round off, so 5 and 10 can be pretty damn close.

The lighter an oil is, the quicker it moves through the pump and filter to protect the lifters and valves. The thicker the oil is, the longer it takes to get there but once it's there it provides better protection. It's a trade off, like all things are. And it doesn't really matter, because 5w and 10w are so close anyways.

Enjoy the feeling of a happy engine :)

thanks for that pipster11

I have a day off 2moro, and planning on doing a full service, on the car, oils coolant diffs, gearbox ect. Just kinda stuck on where i could buy some motor oil and gearbox oil ect

thanks heaps all

If u want it tomorrow:

Go to autobarn and buy what castrol recommends on the castrol australia website. Split a bottle of nulon g90 between them, apparently it helps out.

See if your local sougi s6000 sealer has any in stock, or else buy some 8100 xcess, 300v or royal purple from your local autobarn/supercheap/repco/autopro blah blah.

People on here seem to like the nulon pre-mixed long life coolant (llc) but replacement means you need to drain the block, radiator and heater heat exchanger.

Hope it helps.

You sir, are a champ.

Will swing past autobarn and see how i go, and doing the job isnt really the problem, its mainly just finding the oils and using the right ones.

Can you please give me a few good names for the gearbox and the diffs? And if i could buy them from supercheap or auto b?

The brief lubes thread in the transmission section mentions the penrite limslip 90 and the syn 75w85

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr....html&st=40

I mentioned the nulon g90 above, it's been replaced (as far as I could tell) by g70. I've got ome vmx-m and g70 to put in my box but the f%$#ing grub screws won't undo, going to buy one of those little gas torches from autobarn, a trolley jack and some car stands and hopefully put in its place haha

*galois is then spotted with the r34 on a lorry heading to a mechanic*

Anyways, kidding aside, the castrol ones are cheaper and I'm gonna replace them regularly (20000km) for a while to give it a bit of a flush with fresh oil as I don't think it's been taken care of by the prev owner.

The thing with oils is they'll all work decently otherwise the company would go out of business with the publicity of a failed oil. So a bit of trial and error is okay.

The brief lubes thread in the transmission section mentions the penrite limslip 90 and the syn 75w85

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr....html&st=40

I mentioned the nulon g90 above, it's been replaced (as far as I could tell) by g70. I've got ome vmx-m and g70 to put in my box but the f%$#ing grub screws won't undo, going to buy one of those little gas torches from autobarn, a trolley jack and some car stands and hopefully put in its place haha

*galois is then spotted with the r34 on a lorry heading to a mechanic*

Anyways, kidding aside, the castrol ones are cheaper and I'm gonna replace them regularly (20000km) for a while to give it a bit of a flush with fresh oil as I don't think it's been taken care of by the prev owner.

The thing with oils is they'll all work decently otherwise the company would go out of business with the publicity of a failed oil. So a bit of trial and error is okay.

haha naa easy tiger, with the blo torch

ill see how i go tommorow, thanks again man

Best price on a group 5 oil is Gulf Western Sougi 6000, it can be found for $60 for 5L

Where can I find it this cheap :) Autobarn had a single bottle scratched up all over the bottom,had dust on it. looked at least 100 years old. the guy said it was a mistake order. $89...So i got the $79 8100 instead.

haha naa easy tiger, with the blo torch

ill see how i go tommorow, thanks again man

Good luck with it, sounds like it's gonna be a big day. Just buying one of those lighter torch things, everyone seems to suggest applying some gentle heat. I hope it works, the gearbox is sounding really unhealthy.

Where can I find it this cheap :) Autobarn had a single bottle scratched up all over the bottom,had dust on it. looked at least 100 years old. the guy said it was a mistake order. $89...So i got the $79 8100 instead.

Call gulf western to find your nearest distributor. I bought 4x5L bottles for $256, which is $64 a bottle including gst. My guy delivered it himself to where I work as it was on his way somewhere, now that's service. Give them a call from the number on their website, buy some or find a distributor for next time so save some dosh.

If you buy from autobarn/repco/whatever it becomes a LOT more expensive as they mark it up again. Sougi s6000 should be compared with 300v, grade V, so better than grade IV oils but not really necessary for a street car. 8100 is a good grade IV oil, it has heaps of fans on here.

i paid $68 from the distributer here in tas

they have a guy who comes down from ulverstone (east of devonport) and drives to launceston a couple of times a week

he just met me where convenient

you could also call up a distributer, find out the price, go to supercheap and get them to price match it!

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