The Goods On Oils

[ARTZ]

Definitely not. Never noticed it out the exhaust (on or off boost), have fark all blowby (absolutely nothing came out of the catch can) and as I said with the previous oil drop, the whole 5L came out whereas this one was a lot less

Might honestly just be the oil, which wouldn't bother me too much. Would rather the oil be ghey than have bigger problems.

yeah it will be the oil..

its junk..

I had the same problem with castrol as well but it wasnt edge it was magnatec i think

Penrite wasnt perfect either but its better,

Mobil and motul, no worries at all..

[Trozzle]

for best all round performance on the street 8100 xcess is the shit imo.. I use 5-40,

Mobil one or gold is decent enough too so is penrite syn.

I didnt like castrol

Burnt oil will be black and thin/runny, if your oil drains out fast it is probably burnt or just not good oil..Good oil should be darker than when you put it in of course, but it shouldn't be black unless your engine is tired and it should drain slow towards the end.

i want to know has anyone tried Fuchs oils and what are they like, can get 20l drums of full synthetic for about 150$ just want to use it in my work ute mainly

Well, if you drop the oil when I do it'll be runny lol...generally hot enough to scald your hand nicely.

yeah it will be the oil..

its junk..

I had the same problem with castrol as well but it wasnt edge it was magnatec i think

Penrite wasnt perfect either but its better,

Mobil and motul, no worries at all..

Yeah, I'm sure it's the oil. Since I'm using the second batch of it that I had, I've noticed my lifters are a LOT noisier. I'll drop this shit at like 2500/3000km or so and hit up some 8100 10w40

[AngryRB]

The Mobil seems to stay nice and gold looking between oil changes, but the last time the car was dynoed and i checked it afterwards it was very dark, i guess it probably got a good workout hey?? lol... maybe my squirts dont compare to a dyno run...

[ARTZ]

yeah, ive heard this, this is where castrol edge gets its glory, but where does your car spend most of its time.

[BrOwnY GT]

stock r33 gt-t is castrol edge 10w-60w any good to use? Up for a oil change this month has some shell oil it not sure which only just got it

[ARTZ]

is it modded or stock and how hard do you drive it?

[KrazyKong]

I havn't been on in awhile, but of course caught up with all the new posts .

Birds, can you see any difference between Syn-X and M5000 Sougi? It's possible they are one and the same, but could also be different products.

[BrOwnY GT]

Stock as nails drive it a little hard is the 15-40w better then the 10-60w for a rb25 thats done about 180,000ks

[Rolls]

if its burning oil go the 10-60w, or if it see extended high temps on the track

[ARTZ]

what about Mobil.1 comes in a 10..50 (think penrite syn might too) mgiht give you slightly better fuel economy too.

i went from a 30 to 40 in my work car and lost 50km a tank same with the missus car. Somethin to think about if fuel economy cocerns you. i think if your motor is in good condition a 40 would be fine jsut get a full synthetic of a good brand and it should handle a flogging ok should you decide to flog it a bit

[BrOwnY GT]

So the 10-60w is better for engines that has done more k's?? if you consider 180,000 allot

[Rolls]

it is a thicker oil, you need a thicker oil if it is a really old engine with poor tolerances due to its age (old holden 202s etc) or it is burning oil due to worn rings, or it runs really hot so the oil is thinner than normal.

what about Mobil.1 comes in a 10..50 (think penrite syn might too) mgiht give you slightly better fuel economy too.

i went from a 30 to 40 in my work car and lost 50km a tank same with the missus car. Somethin to think about if fuel economy cocerns you. i think if your motor is in good condition a 40 would be fine jsut get a full synthetic of a good brand and it should handle a flogging ok should you decide to flog it a bit

Lets say you get 400km to a tank and use say 50L thats 12.5L/100km, if you suddenly get 14L/100km it is not the oil that has changed this, it is either your driving style, your car has broken something, or you filled up when you had 5L more in the tank the second time. It is almost certainly the last option being as you have about 10L left when the empty light comes on.

The only wage to gauge fuel economy is to fill the tank to brim, reset odo, drive until its empty, fill to brim and divide your litres used by kilometres travelled/100, this should be averaged over multiple trips to account for highway driving and city driving etc. Trust me there is no way changing from 30 to 40 uses an extra 1.5L/100km.

Edited May 10, 2011 by Rolls

[ARTZ]

this is my experience, my work ute was getting on average 700km per 55l on stamdard 5,30 oil I changed to a penrite 5,40 cause it was a good price and all of a sudden im averaging 650km per 55lt.. I use a tank every 2 days or so and have it all logged..

As for the honda well im not entirely sure, but it used to get melb to adelaide on a tank of fuel, with a 40 weight it didnt quite make it there or back and i was driving alot nicer than usual too..explain that...lol.

im not ...saying it it will make 50ks difference on the skyline, but it can make a difference, it may not be noticable enough to matter though but your car definately will move more freely with a lighter oil, just make sure you get one good enough to protect for your driving style.. im not knocking castrol edge, ive never tried it, i guess it all really depends on cars condition.

[Galois]

Oil can affect the economy by more than just viscosity remember, viscosity is just the easiest one to explain. Detergent heavy oils remove crap which could be adding resistance to the shafts (giggle), a crappy oil breaking down may produce less resistance, something like magnatec where it tries to stick to the metal may even shield sooty deposits harming ease of movement. I've never read anything with any numbers associated with them, but changing from one oil to another is changing more than just viscosity.

Just my 2c anyway. Viscosity is almost certainly the biggest factor, esp with a step change like you had arthur. Just curious, did you ever notice your consumption change over the lifetime of the oil?

[ARTZ]

both were running factory oil. In the 2009 mazda diesel with 40000km the change was instant. went from full syn 5.30 mazda oil to penrite semisyn 5.30 extra 10 so effectivly 40.

The honda 2004 with 150000km now was also 5.30 mineral, i put motul 4100 in that with 7500kms on the oil . It has been to adelaide 4 times, i would fill up in deer park just out of melbourne and roll into adelaide on empty. .This time i filled up in bacchus marsh about 50 to 80kms further out, wil have to double check that figure but the main thing to note is the empty light came on around the same time. I will try get some exact figures later on that though. its hard to tell cause the missu always uses different fuel too like e10 i use bp ult

my main point is really I think a full synthetic 40 will serve a road carin good condition better than a 60. My other ute didnt need a 60 till it got up over 300,000kms and it copped a flogging, but i think you have to be flogging it pretty hard to justify a 60.

[AngryRB]

I could be wrong but i was sure i could tell the difference in oils just by the idle speed and how the engine would crank over.... could be a far stretch..

that is comparing castrol edge 10-60 and Mobil 0-40.. hmm cant remember if there was any beer involved though so..

[ARTZ]

so which feels better??

[Rolls]

so which feels better??

How does an oil 'feel' better?

[ARTZ]

Im sorry

so which oil PERFORMED better.

Which one made the car FEEL nicer to drive

my moneys on the mobil..

[Rolls]

How do you gauge which one performs better?

Point I'm getting at is there are basically no metrics to compare them with, the only thing worth checking is what oil has more or less bearing material in it, or if one makes the lifters noisy, how good a job it does at cleaning your motor, everything else pretty much doesn't matter.