Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noob question but what does that mean?

One is 5w40 the other is 10w40. All this info is in the last few pages mate, maybe have a read over them?

well I would think that means your doing them up to tight wouldnt u?

Also are you putting them on dry or wet, smear a little oil around the seal and half fill it with oil before you put it on..

Anyway, I guess some people just dont get it, which is why they make filters with little nuts..

I do usually agree with you mate, but what is it I'm not getting? I do the filter up hand tight, not as tight as i possibly can but still pretty tight, smear plenty of old oil on the seal. And when I go to undo it probably have a bit of oil on the hand/fingers from undoing and catching the sump plug, and shockingly the thing doesn't want to come off. The nut means that when it doesn't want to come off you whip out a spanner rather than drying everything off and trying again by hand.

You are right though, I am probably overtightening it and I am not an expert, but i sure as hell wouldn't want to put it on to loose. The filter with the nut just makes it easier, we all know that it can be hard to undo things on cars from time to time.

Edited by Galois

Hand tight is correct but too tight is better than too loose. Have seen an entire bottle of Sougi dump out onto the floor of my workshop after I started my engine, because I made the mistake of letting my friend screw on the oil filter (too loose and seal wasn't sitting properly).

Heat/time/pressure will affect the oil filter thread and seal...it is normal for something to be tighter when removing than installing. Just keep using the nuts if you can't get it right. Oil filter wrench is a fantastic invention though...difficult to get in there and use on an RB engine, but will get the tightest of filters off.

It definitely looks good. How secure is it though birds, I'm guessing you've never had any trouble? Does it feel like the safety latch will protect against a wayward stone flying up under the car?

Seems pretty secure to me. You have to pull down on the tap/lever and then turn it. Sort of like how those child proof screw caps work. It won't turn in it's stationary position. They've designed it pretty well to prevent accidental release. Does not stick out far at all either...I would say the base of my sump is still closer to the ground than my valve - should be plenty safe for lowered cars.

What viscosity is good for an RB20E with 180km on the clock.

It will be summer when I have to do an oil change and I give it a good trashing everyday.

Whatever the cheapest stuff kmart has in 10w40, if it burns oil go 20w50

Also how do you thrash an rb20e, in fact what car even has an rb20e in it, must be horrible to drive!

I use one of these,just like you said makes oil changes a breeze. :yes:

Excuse the n00b question, but no idea on thread/pitch of the sump plug. Which of these would be the go for an RB25?

http://fumoto.com.au/sizes.php

EDIT: Scrolled down *facepalm* can someone confirm this is it? Nissan Models from 1990 & on 12mm-1.25 F-103

Edited by Dingus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...