Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mobil 1 is good, although, i think it's an oil that needs more frequent changes than others...

RB's are "lifty" fullstop. Mobil 1 did quiet mine down a bit, Royal Purple made them quieter again... i would probably stay away from "lifter free" sounds horrible.

Good oil, fairly often. Just stick with that :)

hey Gareth :P, i got it from harold, $11.99 per quart, and you need about 6, $71 - i was just putting it into a more friendly measurement, litres instead of quarts. But it's still around $70 for an oil change

6? Do you have an oil cooler or something? 6 * 0.945 (is that was a quart is?) that would be 5.67 litres.

Anyway, you probably did tell me and I have a terrible memory :laugh:

Yes, I don't like the quarts measurement, its confusing.

hm, i change my oil at 5000kms or less. So non frequent changing is not the problem.

Maybe i try the mobile 1 0w-40w. Without lifter free. Might need to look for an alternative oil tho. 0w-40w fully syn around 90 for 5 litres!

Anyway i inform you guys how it goes. =)

changed oil today from quaker state 20-50w to redline 20-50w went for a drive an heat it up pretty good then on idle started to hear a clicking noise(the kind u hear when u switch off an your exh is coolin down) seemed to be commin from the exh side rocker cover. Car has done 120000km an never heard this before. Any suggestions as to what this might be? By the way its not a constant noise it comes an goes.

yea.. agreed..!

I got told before to use 10/60, buy a guy at repco before...

He said if i used anything lower, my engine would be destroyed............................................................

I smiled and walked off. Lol!

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, Just some feedback on this thread. Took the advice of the blokes here and the mobile one gold 0-30 worked great. Unfortunatly Its too good and I felt the engine was moving too freely and it was to thin.

Now have moved onto motul 5-40 I think xcess 8100 and its pretty good stuff. BTW oil change at 10,000km on the skyline with mobil gold came out slightly deep gold so its good for awhile id say (no oil cooler and yes I gave it a nice run)

Hope that helps some people, I just felt the 0 weight was too thin and would give too much unwanted engine wear.

yeah, Castrol Syntec is their true synthetic oils... and surprise surprise, you can't buy it off the shelf here... well, not that i know about.

I would stick with the german 0w30 though.... i've heard a lot of reports that the American stuff is actually Group III, but Castrol decided they wouldn't tell anyone... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...