Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for a near stock r33 gts-t 88,000ks. what would be a better choice, nulon 10W40 syn or penrite 5W40 semi syn

I ran Penrite HPR10 which is 10-50 with 80k on the clock. Was terrible in my car and felt too thick both at cold and hot temperatures. Then switched to GW Sougi S6000 and it felt perfect. Not all weights are the same from brand to brand, and what ingredients are used also plays a part.

So it all comes down to what you want to spend. Nulon regardless of their claims is only a semi synthetic. If I were to ever try Penrite again, I might be tempted to try their 10w40 Everyday Synthetic oil. But there are better options out there. For the price you are so much better off trying to locate some Sougi from a GW distributor. Otherwise you could try using Motul 4100 Turbolight which is a 10w40 semi synthetic oil. A lot of people use that with great results.

If you don't have hours of time, then read the last 30 odd pages of this thread and you'll be so much more the wiser. You'll not only find out things you wanted to know, but also understand things you weren't yet at the point of even knowing to ask.

What is the best oil to put in a R34 GTT Manual 5spd gearbox? It is a road car which is occasionally taken onto the track.

The reason i ask is because 3000km ago when i had the major service done, the mechanic changed my gearbox oil and i think he put some castrol brand oil in it, and it has felt awful ever since.

I have been doing some reading and Motul seems to be the best bet, but what type? I live in Sydney and drive the car in the mornings when it is extremely cold, and the current oil takes forever to warm up, which is resulting in a whistling noise coming up through my trans tunnel. I'm thinking the oil is too thick.

Also looking at some oil for the engine aswell, i've been reading this thread but all the different opinions have started to do my head in :D The engine is the Neo RB25DET, minor work done to it, the Motul oil perk of only having to change every 10,000km seems pretty good, but i have had people whom i know in real life telling me that Penrite & Mobil are good brands aswell? I was just wondering if anyone has an idea of what i should be using. I seem to have discovered 10w40 is the best viscosity by reading this thread.

And if you live in the Syd area, what reseller do you recommend to make this purchase.

Thanks in advance for the help :)

hey mate, yeah 10w40 for the engine, and either motul 8100, 300V or turbolight 4100, royal purple, sougi s6000 or m5000 (if you can find some) all seem to get good ratings. some people prefer the mobil 1 0w40 etc, but each to their own.

on the gearbox oil, im changing mine today with castrox vmx-m 75w85 with a small bottle of the nulon g70 additive. wanted to go pentire sin75 but out of my pricerange for a little while...

im sure birds will respond, how will the vmx-m go?

Anyone here heard of <a href="http://"http://www.mainlube.com/cms/"" target="_blank">mainlube</a>?

They look pretty impressive to me, better than royal purple etc.

What a horrid website that is. Went there to have a look and ended up just clicking the back button and getting out of there.

i think you need to make a distinction between what RP 'offers'.

RP has a Group V oil, XPR i believe, which is the Redline/Motul 300V competitor i suppose, and there is a Group IV (and i think some groupIII mixed in) oil, which is more the standard one at a good price point.

I haven't used XPR because it's $$$, i have used the normal one.

I stick with the yank ones as they are ok with Ethanol/Methanol. But apparently the Sougi Group V is ok with ethanol as well????

I had someone with an E85 running Stagea come in the other day and buy a box of Sougi off me. They were certain it would be fine for alcohol so I'd say it is, but I can't find anything specific about it on the GW website.

Last I heard about Sougi, what's left is the last of it unless they decide to produce another batch. So yes, buy up. I've got 3-4 boxes stored away just for me :whoops:

Will PM you Daniel.

Also, M5000 is still running no complaints and we're coming up to almost 4000km with a track day and fair bit of hard driving thrown into the mix. I'll have no issue making the switch to the superseder and cheaper Syn-X if it is indeed as good or better than M5000.

anyone else had experience with the HRP10 in there rb25dets?

Yes it's not good oil for the RB25. It felt too thick when cold, and took ages to get up to temperature. Car felt sluggish as well. Also noticed a very pronounced tappet noise when using this oil.

I ditched HPR10 and went to Sougi S 6000. Since it's going out of production soon, either grab some now, M 5000 or if money isn't a problem go with Motul or Royal Purple.

The weight is important though. HPR10 is 10w50, but even the 10 part doesn't feel right with that oil. 10w40 is a good oil weight for the RB25 so try and go with that weight of oil in one of the above mentioned brands.

I have been running the Nulon 10W40 "full synthetic" which I know is not a full synthetic. Seems to be ok. Have done 2500ks on it so far. want to change it early this time to flush the motor out as the oil was dirty when I bought it.

What do people think of this oil? I can get it for $45 for 5lts so I bought it based partially on a good price

Not I change the oil with filter (drift brand) at 5000 k or less and the car is daily driven (so it only gets a squirt now and then)

Edited by TUF250

if you keep good track of when you change your oil, nulon will be fine. You'll just have to be a little extra careful with your intervals and any hard driving. It will breakdown quicker than the true synthetics, but at 5K km intervals, you'll be fine :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...