Jump to content
SAU Community

Service Question- Tranny Fluid

kidafa

By kidafa,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Well its nearly time to do the 1st service on the stag since I've owned it...

Im planning on doing the following:

  • Oil And oil Filter
  • Brake Fluid
  • Front and Rear Diff Oil
  • Tranny oil

Ive allready done the coolant when i did the timing belt so thats ok....

The question I have is about draining the tranny fluid.. Ive read many different ways to do it, eg the plug or out the cooler lines....

Which method do you guys use and recomend to get the most out of the system that i can?

Have I missed anythign that I should be doing?

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225579-service-question-tranny-fluid/
Share on other sites
RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
Hi All,

Well its nearly time to do the 1st service on the stag since I've owned it...

Im planning on doing the following:

  • Oil And oil Filter
  • Brake Fluid
  • Front and Rear Diff Oil
  • Tranny oil

Ive allready done the coolant when i did the timing belt so thats ok....

The question I have is about draining the tranny fluid.. Ive read many different ways to do it, eg the plug or out the cooler lines....

Which method do you guys use and recomend to get the most out of the system that i can?

Have I missed anythign that I should be doing?

Cheers,

Chris

There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the gearbox. I'd be draining it from there. or faster draining, remove the dipstick at the same time. :P

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the gearbox. I'd be draining it from there. or faster draining, remove the dipstick at the same time. :P

Ive herd that this will not get all of it out though....

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

few ways to do it, best is go to tranny shop, special machines that replenish the fluid.

Fill and drain it a few times.

or drain it, refill, disconnect cooler hose, sucking end in fresh fluid, other in drain, run it until out fluid is fresh

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

If the fluid isn't pressurised as it is fed into the trans, you will never get it all out due to the sheer volume that the torque converter contains (that will not come uout under gravity). Either get it flushed at a trans specialist, or drain and refill it about 4 times in a week. Its about the only way I know of to get it all out, and it would be a LOT more stuffing around,and probably more expensive, than getting a specialist to do it.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

/\ 2nd that

On a side note, you mentioned changing the brake fluid? What is your procedure for bleeding the stagea's abs system? the compliance shop mechanic told me they had to be vacuum bled. Is there a way it can be done at home?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Hi All,

Well its nearly time to do the 1st service on the stag since I've owned it...

Im planning on doing the following:

  • Oil And oil Filter
  • Brake Fluid
  • Front and Rear Diff Oil
  • Tranny oil

Ive allready done the coolant when i did the timing belt so thats ok....

The question I have is about draining the tranny fluid.. Ive read many different ways to do it, eg the plug or out the cooler lines....

Which method do you guys use and recomend to get the most out of the system that i can?

Have I missed anythign that I should be doing?

Cheers,

Chris

I have just done the auto fliud - what a mission!

Drain the pan but note that the plug is not at the lowest point so when you drop the pan it will still contain fluid (yep it went everywhere). You need to drop the rear gearbox mount to get the pan off so you need plenty of stands/jacks. I replaced the filter but the one supplied was not quite right - had to cut off some of the square pickup pipe. You could probably just wash the old one. The pan was full of gunk so I am glad that i took it off. I put the pan back on (after I worked out that the new filter was stopping it from going on) and then pulled off the supply hose to the oil cooler and stuck it in a plastic 2L bottle and ran the engine til it filled. then I poured 2L of new fluid down the dipstick tube and repeated until the fluid ran clean. I used about 15L in this process ( I got a 20L Fuchs Titan 4000 semi synthetic cheap $60).

My last Stagea I took to an auto service place that did a flush for $300 and they didn't even take the pan off so by doing it myself I am satisfied that I got it as clean as possible even though it was a major hassle. Even if you have to pay more for the ATF it is good for your peace of mind to do it yourself. You will probably only ever have to do it once!

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

thanks for the writeup KiwiRS4T :P My RS4 is with MV Automatics in Adelaide today getting just that done (and a valve body upgrade :huh:) which is a fairly reputable place here in Adelaide so I hope they at least drop the pan (well it's getting a service and they said they're fitting a new filter so I assume they'd have to drop the pan)

I asked about flush/fill and they said they only refill the pan (:D !) and only flush the rest of the system 'if the oil looks like it needs replacing'. Hmmmmkay.... for $300 for a service, like you say, it better be a good job (although for a complete refil I would expect at least $100 of that to be gearbox oil cost alone).

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
KiwiRS4,

IF i drop the pan do i need and gaskets or anything or it simply open her up and bolt it back together once im done?

I bought a kit with a gasket and a filter but when I dropped the pan the gasket was stuck to the pan so it could probably have been reused - you could always put a bit of gasket sealer on to make sure I guess. (Make sure you have a plan b - someone else with a car to go buy a gasket in case you destroy yours getting it off but mine came off in one piece OK). Good luck!

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • LaurelPWR
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By LaurelPWR · Posted

      That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...