Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

I have a R32 gts-t and had the engine reco'd about 2months ago to standard spec. I made a big mistake not putting in forged pistons in. my question is which might sound abit dumb :P

is it possible to change the piston's with out taking off the head again and pulling out the motor? e.g., like put the car on a hoist and taking off the gearbox, oil pan and oil pump. And unblot the crank and pulling out the pistons.?

cheers

bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227563-changing-pistons/
Share on other sites

nah mate head has to come off. cant drop them out the bottom. generally u have to take motor out again put on a stand take head off take sump off and one by one unbolt bigends and slide pistons and conrods out the top. a fair ole job to wanna go and do now. basically strip it back to a bare motor pretty much. if u got bucket loads of money go nuts.

Edited by skylinekid

No problems just cost time and money for labour, new gaskets, sealant etc, but you will need to hone the bores to suit the forged pistons to get piston to bore clearance right and bed in rings as far as I know.

hi guys

I have a R32 gts-t and had the engine reco'd about 2months ago to standard spec. I made a big mistake not putting in forged pistons in. my question is which might sound abit dumb :P

is it possible to change the piston's with out taking off the head again and pulling out the motor? e.g., like put the car on a hoist and taking off the gearbox, oil pan and oil pump. And unblot the crank and pulling out the pistons.?

cheers

bill

Hi there, apart from cast pistons, what kinda big mistake? Effective life of motor after big mistake? Like can yurun with a de-rated motor for the intended purpose for a while (like 40k's) or is the intended purpose gunna foobar it? If the latter is the case then pull motor out, strip it down & fit gear that will achieve yor purpose. Most cost effective option.

Cheers GW

my car is already pushing 232rwkw's and i dont think it will last to long. i know that u have to put the pistons through the top. but i cbf pulling everything out again. i dont see the difference would be if u go through the bottom?

cheers

bill

Your probably better off sourcing another bottom end, then building that up in the mean time.

At least that way your not without the car for weeks on end while you take it all out. Could probably just sell your bottom end on them to re-coupe costs. If its making that power now and the tune is good there is no reason why it shouldn't last.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...