Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Considering getting a front bar on my series 1 R33, but I'm wondering if its really worth it.

Possible problems I could foresee;

1. Forgetting its there and smashing it on something when parking.

2. Grinding it on various drive ways, etc.

3. Added harassment from cops, and hoons.

Mainly I'm concerned I'll damage it. Has anyone had any experience with this?

Also, how does a front bar look on a stock R33? Does it look silly without skirts and a rear bar?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228781-front-bars-are-they-worth-it/
Share on other sites

well it adds more character to the car!

but the downside is you gotta learn what you can make without smashing the front bar and what angle you need to take.

mines pretty smashed up now so i dont really care when it scrapes

yeah everyone baby's their new kit...just like a new mobile phone. Then u drop it for the first time...cringe...then eventually after a while, you won't care...If cops and damage are your only concern...then just get it...

Hiya,

You'll appreciate its looks when you get a front lip. If you want it look stock, you may be able to land one with a Nismo shape from www.jsai.com.au

It doesn't look at all out of place without skirts and rear pods.

In regard to damaging it, you'll be immediately conscious that it's there as soon as have it put on so...

i) you'll be aware enough to go over gutters at an angle

ii) you'll be aware enough to reverse into spots where there's a concrete stopper

iii) you'll learn where there are dodgy culverts to avoid as you drive from place to place and lastly,

iv) by avoiding the above, it'll prove that you're sober at the time eh? lol

Later on, you can buy skirts if need be...

Cheers, T

Depending on the aggressiveness of the front bar and its height will determine if it looks out of place with the factory side skirts and rear bar.

Learning to drive with a bodykit, as people have mentioned, will take time but it will also give your car a unique look and completely different stance.

1. Forgetting its there and smashing it on something when parking.

2. Grinding it on various drive ways, etc.

3. Added harassment from cops, and hoons.

Been through all of these, lol. Had problems for first 2 weeks of driving with bodykit... accidentally smashed it on a carpark and fixing and respraying it costed $350 :/ ... After that so far so good. Just make sure your suspension has stock ride height and you should be alright. Dont go too low, otherwise you'll have too many problems at dips and driveways. And dont worry if you occasionally scratch bottom of the front bar... noone will see it and soon or later you'd get stonechips etc. on the bottom anyway.

Edited by Rocky88

Thanks for the info guys.

I had another question, approximately how much does it cost to paint a front bar (or skirts, and rear for that matter)?

I'm pretty sure I could fit it myself, or at least with the help of a couple of mates, but I tried searching and couldn't get a price on exactly how much preparing plus painting costs.

Thanks again.

I would not recommend fitting it yourself, depending on where you buy the bodykit from there could be a bit of work involved with making it sit well. Best to pay the professionals and get the job done right.

I had a Fibreglass (as is most kits) Evo front bar on my lancer (Before the Skyline).

Made a big difference to the look of the car. (My opinion for the positive). Drew a bit more attention but nothing drastic. However. It made the car feel a lot more Fragile. Especially when you start seeing minor cracks form around the major mounting points. Then when i roadworthyed the car to sell it. They said they wouldnt give me a roadroady with a fibreglass bumper due to impact resistance. On a positive the front bar arrived and fit the car perfectly which was good.

Ill never change the front bar on my line. I am considering a Carbon Lip + Diffuser to go under my standard S2 bar. But I would never buy a cheap f/g replacement anymore.

So does no one have an average cost of preparing and painting, and fitting?

I'm really considering getting one, but don't want to find out a few hundred down the track that paint and installation cost a lot more than expected.

Prep/paint/clear/fit a bar with no extra problems may cost between $350-$600. Ask for Speedy Clips rather than bolts if appropriate so that you can get the bar off again yourself without hassles ie. to change a bulb, source a leak, to get at this or that...

Cheers, T

I had an M-sports front bar on my 33 for 6 or so months until my girlfriend put it into a lump of dirt on a mate lawn and cracked it :down:

Its now on my mates car all stiched up with cable ties (drift spec).

Heres a pic of it on mine VVVVVVV, price was $400 for the bar and $350 for paint.

post-43220-1217079315_thumb.jpg

i've prob got 7-8cm clearance up front :worship: you get use to it...

This is not a legal issue in Vic... it's the BODY of the car (including exhaust) which can't be lower than 100mm... side skirts/body kit can be lower...

i also have a plastic front bumper, not FG, this gives you a lot more flex, and i surely would have snapped it quite a few times otherwise... it's more expensive but it's save me what... 2 resprays at say $800 all up? something to think about

if you drive a lot of the same roads, and go to the same car parks, etc... that it's easy to manage because you know what clearances you have and don't have. I dread new car parks. I tried getting into the Melb Central car park from lonsdale st (under the walkway) in heavy traffic... and i couldn't f*cking get up the ramp!

So if you drive pretty much the same places, a low front bumper can be managed...

yes they are worth it! get one! or two or three! i've had four in my time of driving my r33 series 1 and i've loved every single one of them - especially my most recent custom made :worship:

that's it, get one! don't worry about the price just shop around and dont get anybody dodgy!

This is not a legal issue in Vic... it's the BODY of the car (including exhaust) which can't be lower than 100mm... side skirts/body kit can be lower...

can you show mw vic roads docs stating this? :worship:

hahaha, this is what Traction Tyres told me, and i thought if anyone is to know, they would (they run a tool under the whole car to check clearances) And i asked about the front bumper, and they're like, don't worry, it's just the body of the car.

i'm more than welcome to be proven wrong though, cos i'd like to know if my car is infact illegal... i've been pulled over a few times recently, all officers checking the front of the car, nothing said yet :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...