Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just put a defi boost gauge on my rs 4 s . is completly stock apart from stainless cat back jasma exhaust . according to defi recall its running the tiniest bit over .7 kgf/cm . which is ten psi . mind you the factory guage also goes up to +7 x 100mmHg which also converts to 13 psi ... am i stupid or do all neo's run ten psi factory ?

Edited by Duncan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228872-10psi-on-a-stock-rs4s/
Share on other sites

The neo's definitely run the same 5psi / 7psi setup as the series 1's. That is, 5psi and then up to 7psi above 4500rpm - as controlled by the stock boost solenoid. Or you can short the solenoid permanently and run 7psi all the time, for some extra midrange response. Its actually somewhere between 7psi and 8psi from memory...

If its running 10psi either you're measuring a different pressure or yours isn't stock for whatever reason. normal spot to plug in the guage on an RB is on the nipple near the plenum.

just put a defi boost gauge on my rs 4 s . is completly stock apart from stainless cat back jasma exhaust . according to defi recall its running the tiniest bit over .7 kgf/cm . which is ten psi . mind you the factory guage also goes up to +7 x 100mmHg which also converts to 10 psi ... am i stupid or do all neo's run ten psi factory ?

Does your boost have a step at around 4500 rev/min as mentioned above? If not someone may have bypassed the boost solenoid for extra boost (a good trick) see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...html&st=880

and scroll down to post 884 for a photo of the boost solenoid (near the power steering reservoir).

yeah i know exactly what/where the boost controll soleniod is and how it works and everything and dont need a picture to know what one is . and about the two stage boost controll . it all appears stock . soleniod is still plugged in and plumbed in . my gauge is plumbed in right next to the sender for the stock boost guage . it has its own line coming out of manifold and it lives by where the throttle cable goes through the fire wall . also appears to go straight to .7kgf/m regardles of rpm. in saying that it certainly goes real hard and pulls from real low . tuning appears pretty good too. got just over 400 kays from 3/4 of a tank to the fuel light just turned on . not bad for the first 3 weeks of ownership which including taking everyone for "new car man take us for a fang round the block "

maybe my car has a r32 turbo actuator on it , had one here for it anyway so will compare them one day also the "s" is quoted as having ten more newton meters of torque over the autos meh . interesting none the less

  • 1 month later...

hay lachlanw my s2 manual stag which is stock except for boost controler ,blow off valve , cat back exhaust and k&n filter element . i disconected the std boost controler and fitted a turbosmart one then took it to hunter all wheel dyno in heatherbrae in newcastle got it on the dyno and as it was it was making 147.7 kw on 8 psi then after a bit more boost up to 9.5 psi and a few deg of timing we ended up with 170.8 kw .and the AFR was still nice and ritch so could of gone a bit more but i was very happy with the result and only took us 1.5 hrs now the car har heaps better bottom end torque the mid range hole is gone and it sounds so much better idles smoother. SO MY OPINION IS GO AND GET UR CAR DYNO TUNED IT MAY BE A BIT PRICEY BUT IT IS WELL WORTH IT IN THE END YOU WILL BE IMPRESSED WITH THE RESULTS .

hay lachlanw my s2 manual stag which is stock except for boost controler ,blow off valve , cat back exhaust and k&n filter element . i disconected the std boost controler and fitted a turbosmart one then took it to hunter all wheel dyno in heatherbrae in newcastle got it on the dyno and as it was it was making 147.7 kw on 8 psi then after a bit more boost up to 9.5 psi and a few deg of timing we ended up with 170.8 kw .and the AFR was still nice and ritch so could of gone a bit more but i was very happy with the result and only took us 1.5 hrs now the car har heaps better bottom end torque the mid range hole is gone and it sounds so much better idles smoother. SO MY OPINION IS GO AND GET UR CAR DYNO TUNED IT MAY BE A BIT PRICEY BUT IT IS WELL WORTH IT IN THE END YOU WILL BE IMPRESSED WITH THE RESULTS .

y did you disconnect the standard boost controller ? mine runs ten psi on the standard setup .

y did you disconnect the standard boost controller ? mine runs ten psi on the standard setup .

i'd say the reason johnny went a mbc was to run 10psi thru the entire r/range.... much more responsive and enjoyable than 2 stage like your running if your still soleniod controlled

i'd say the reason johnny went a mbc was to run 10psi thru the entire r/range.... much more responsive and enjoyable than 2 stage like your running if your still soleniod controlled

rs four "s" does run ten psi the whole way through the rev range . no step in the boost . read the rest of this thread . it hits ten puond by 2500rpm in third gear and really starts makin some torque

Not sure if the original post was answered as to why it was 10psi...

See my other post above - s2's (and s1's) are definitely only ~7psi standard.

The original post mentioned a larger exhaust, which would more than likely account for the increase in boost pressure measured.

On my old s2, installing a full 3" exhaust alone was enough to raise the boost high enough for it to hit R&R, causing it to lose power suddenly and even cut out in some cases...

maybe four fuel pump or your fuel or a knock sensor or somethin was shody on your car . i dunno . gonna get a dyno run sometime . to see if its as fast as it feels it certainly aint slow by any standards. and certainly isnt hitting rich and retard

"The powerplant is the RB25DET as introduced in the R33 GTS25T. In R34 form, however, the engine is upgraded to more environmentally friendly 'NEO' specs. The NEO RB25DET also features a hot-wire airflow meter, 9.0:1 static compression, air-to-air intercooler, ceramic turbine roller-bearing turbocharger, blow-off valve and variable inlet cam timing. With manifold boost pressure of around 60 - 70 kPa (as shown on the factory boost gauge) the R34 25GTt is listed at 206kW at 6400 and 343Nm at 3200 rpm. The R34 25GTt scores its extra power over previous models thanks to a larger turbo (providing a healthier amount of boost), better intercooler, an improved exhaust system and engine management updates."

By my calcs; 60-70 kPa= 8.7-10.2 PSI

glad i brought a s2 now and not an s1 . my mate had a r33 gtst skyline and it had a cooler , 3'' exhaust , pod filter and was running 10 psi even after it was tuned on a dyno it still only made 175 kw , my s2 stagea is basicly stock except for a cat back exhaust and k&n filter element and stock cooler and it still made 170.8 kw when tuned , the neo is an awasome motor im so glad i brought it over the earlyer one .

Hi there ppls, just picked up my s2 RSFour S 5 speed manual down in newcastle ( i live in cairns lol) goes nice and runs well, but yeh i'd agree that there is no step up in boost, mine seems pretty stock cept for a cat back exhaust and hi flow panel filter, ive driven my mates 33 coupe and it clearly has that step up in boost.

That sounds awesome johnny, i should really go get my tuned, cos mine has the same stuff as yours, and 170kw sounds pretty awesome :) but yeh still think ill get a full 3" exhaust tho.

ANyone from cairns on here with their stags???????????????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...