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I have r33 skyline s2 with minimal mods of exhust , air intake and have just done my 100k service and was wondering would i benefit from a ecu remap and what would i expect and where are the good places in Melbourne and how much should i expect to pay. thanks

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I've only got one spare ECU, the rest are 3 weeks away...

damn i guess il have to be patient :D.

is a fuel pump neccesary for 200atw or should it be fine running 3.5" exhaust, fmic, manual boost controller and of course the remapped ecu.

p.s i havnt stopped hearing good things about you sam, cant wait to be a paying customer.

cheers

Gezza

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New fuel pump???..

hmmm..my suggestion is YES.

Depending on how old your car is.

I have a 94 gtst, i upgraded to a Walbro but only because my stock one started failing at 198rwkw.

you'll be pushing the fuel pump, and if it's old like my one was it'll soon die out.

Maybe it won't. Maybe it will.

But you wouldn't want to hit detonation whilst giving it a hit and losing your engine along with it.

Engine..$2500...fuel pump...$160 for a Walbro or $380 for a direct replacement Tomei...i'd choose the cheaper alternative

Check out Performance wise...they got what you need.

RJ.

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New fuel pump???..

hmmm..my suggestion is YES.

haha thanks RJ, i definatley will go for a fuel pump b4 pushing it too much.

not sure how old, but i think its about ready to crap out.

anything else you would recommend to run 200atw comfortably?

cheers

Gezza

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damn i guess il have to be patient :D.

is a fuel pump neccesary for 200atw or should it be fine running 3.5" exhaust, fmic, manual boost controller and of course the remapped ecu.

p.s i havnt stopped hearing good things about you sam, cant wait to be a paying customer.

cheers

Gezza

Cheers :) if you do want to go ahead with it please let me know and perhaps put a deposit on an ECU - I'm selling them very near cost, so at $1000 a pop I can't afford to keep many on the shelf, and they go like hot cakes. Last time I ordered 15 and 12 were presold..

With EFI cars yes you will need a fuel pump. For 200 rwkw I would suggest upgrading it, they are reknown for loosing pressure under boost...

New fuel pump???..

hmmm..my suggestion is YES.

Depending on how old your car is.

I have a 94 gtst, i upgraded to a Walbro but only because my stock one started failing at 198rwkw.

you'll be pushing the fuel pump, and if it's old like my one was it'll soon die out.

Maybe it won't. Maybe it will.

But you wouldn't want to hit detonation whilst giving it a hit and losing your engine along with it.

Engine..$2500...fuel pump...$160 for a Walbro or $380 for a direct replacement Tomei...i'd choose the cheaper alternative

Check out Performance wise...they got what you need.

RJ.

Spot on, but I don't think it's to do with the age, even late 98 series 3s start loosing pressure around 200rwkw. The walbro pumps are a great economical upgrade, very difficult to pick non genuine. Good for mid to high 200rwkws, anything over 300rwkw I'd personally go the Sard 280lt/hr intank or ideally (for track not so ideal for street) external surge tank/pump setup.

New fuel pump???..

hmmm..my suggestion is YES.

haha thanks RJ, i definatley will go for a fuel pump b4 pushing it too much.

not sure how old, but i think its about ready to crap out.

anything else you would recommend to run 200atw comfortably?

cheers

Gezza

Clean Undies?

Nah j/k should be pretty much on the money there... getting close to reliable limits on std turbo though.

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Sorry if i'm hijacking your thread, but i'm looking into ECU remaps as well (and also aiming for about 200rwkw)...

just wanting to know roughly the price range for having this done? You mentioned $1k, is this for a remap or a whole new ECU?

cheers

Ric

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Changeover ECU which has been modified with the addition of a CPU to EPROM conversion board which enables the ecu to be tuned by anyone with basic rom tuning skills and has no additional 'chip replacement fee' associated with the single burn cpu replacement method. The EPROM also stores the data in an easy to use format and is not encoded in any way. Have also just finished sorting out dual map upgrades, so you can have a valet mode or race fuel or nitrous or whatever map as well as your daily driver map at the flick of a switch.

E-Mail me if you need more info.

Sam

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lol... I am in bed!

Can do a fair few earlier Bosch ECUs as most of them are eprom based, and I'm certain theres options for flash tuning through the diag port on newer ones...

Sleep is such a dreadful waste of time :D

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if you wont be upgrading anything in the future then Toshi could be ur other option.. he does the R33 Remaps for $500 with a road or dyno tune..look it up in the traders sale section.. Or if u want it posted it to ya its around $400 + post... the only thing with these remaps is that you cant tune them further, you would have to get another remap if you added new injectors or turbo etc.. Dr Drifts remaps are a good option if u are considering further modifications to ur car in the future :banana:

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With EFI cars yes you will need a fuel pump. For 200 rwkw I would suggest upgrading it, they are reknown for loosing pressure under boost...

Spot on, but I don't think it's to do with the age, even late 98 series 3s start loosing pressure around 200rwkw. The walbro pumps are a great economical upgrade, very difficult to pick non genuine. Good for mid to high 200rwkws, anything over 300rwkw I'd personally go the Sard 280lt/hr intank or ideally (for track not so ideal for street) external surge tank/pump setup.

Yeah, that last time I was helping you down at Dynosource, I lost count of the cars you sent away with fuel pump issues.

We found that issue on Dano's car too mate...well he did. You were spot on, boost leak. He pressurised the system with that tester I was telling you about and found a crack in the cooler. Great work!

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Hey Gezza,

What i'd do to run it safely and more so RELIABLY @ 200kw..well..its touch and go with diff cars and setups and the way you drive it.

For street driving:

-R34 SMIC or FMIC (cheap as chips these days)

-Walbro fuel pump

-Spark plugs gapped @ 0.8mm

-Electronic boost contoller (more reliable,no boost spiking,stays at your desired boost all the time everytime) REMEMBER RELIABILITY

-Exhaust Cam..retarded a couple of degrees

-Apexi pod filter, INSIDE A BOX (no exception)

-Cold Air Intake

-ECU remap or Apexi SAFC

The tuner will set the boost pressure to safely get as close as possible to 200kw, i'm running 10PSI. But i'm getting it High Flowed soon.

GOOD LUCK

RJ

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