Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Then changed, derailleur, cassette (again, 11-21t dura-ace this time)....

duraceclose.jpg

may i ask why the hell you put a road bike derailleur and cassette on a dirt bike? if you say to save weight i am going to slap you, as there are much better things to spend money on to save weight (things that cost less and will save you more weight)

anywho, here is what my next bike is going to be. hopefully have it by xmas. my mtb is ok for when i got for a ride with cherie, but when i go out for a hardcore sprint around town like i did on saturday arvo it isn't that good. just not quite as comfortable for high speed riding. i just have to sell a bit of stuff to get it.

dsc00245hc4.jpg

well its not a mountain/road bike but ill let u all know bout my old sk8park bike!!

its a 2006 DK Cleveland

looks like this

post-53838-1220272159_thumb.jpg

but it looks a lil diff now...

bought it for $700 new

its now got a Hazard light rear rim- $200

tuffneck 3 piece crank- $250

primo rod seat post- $50

primo pedals- $80

DH pig pro bearing set- $75

Dual brake line setup (rear only) whole thing cost around $200-$250

blah

blah

blah

cant b bothered writing it all atm cause i forget. i think im close with most prices...

ill post some pics of my bike up tomorrow!

its for sale too... put a fair bit of money into it back in the day. most top range parts.

looking around $550 for it. perfect for skate park or dirt jumps :(

forgot to take a pic today. been tryin to get the stickers off and make it look good to sell :D

Stagea girl- to my knowledge, mongoose arent really worth much these days unless they're brand new and the higher models. wat is your son planning to use it for? if its for him to just ride around the area or to school then it wouldnt matter if it was old. all you would need to do is spray it(only if needed) and buy some cheap parts. but for a more stressful (on the bike) application such as bmx racing, skateparks or dirt jumps, i would recommend a newer stronger frame otherwise u will just be up for more money wen he starts breaking things :D

think of it as a car. inferior parts= constant replacing, superior parts(unfortunatley more $$$)= stronger and long lasting.

i had my pushbike for a few years and gave it hell. daily use on skateparks with stacks onto concrete from decent heights, landing wrong where ive broke bones instead of parts on the bike, hit trees dirt jumping etc etc... and its still in near perfect condition! because i forked out on the higher quality, i havent needed to replace anything since i upgraded the different parts.

well im ranting on...

Edited by auss13

mongoose aren't worth shit unless they are the ones from the 80's. and if it is a few years old it wouldn't be worth much even if it was a high end model. bikes have changed so much over the past few years, and gotten cheaper. what you used to pay $1000 for about 5 years back you can now get for about half that.

I have an old mongoose frame, was going fix it up for my son, but the bike shop said it wasn't worth it.

Anyone know about mongoose?? They worth anything these days?

If its a Supergoose I'll buy it off you. :D

ok well after looking at the pics, i can tell you that you will be lucky to get $300 for it. sure it might have an odyssey rim on it, and sealed bearing cranks but that is about all that's good. the actual crank arms aren't that good, just the bearings. for $550 you can pretty much buy a 2008 model cleveland, and it is better spec'd. but if you can get $550 for it then well done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...