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Depends how hard it hits the wall ( spring binds ), at least with the unsprung clutch you can slip it till its loaded up fully, but hitting the spring stop would be like slipping your foot off the side off the clutch pedal while its on the floor boards giving the sudden jerk, again this is just one of my crazy theories and no real proof of it and would depend on how hard you are over powering the springs

Matic D is basically dextron III, not exactly same but very close, where Trans Max Z and RP Synroc max are designed for higher then normal loading like towing a caravan and stuff and while you don't have any issues with it and most likely never will I like the idea of having something designed more for what I'm doing with it

Yeah I get what you mean with regards to the springs, guess I'm just pinning my hopes that the springs are strong enough to do their job and absorb some of the shock.

And interesting on the Transfer fluid. Good to know there's something even better if needed.

  • 2 weeks later...

The RP has better load factorying

Been having a look at it, sounds like they have lubs for most applications :)

By the way Mick, thanks for your input for my build,all sorted and most parts are in and just about ready to go ahead with the job in a couple of weeks :)

I will post the results.

Cheers

What's load factorying (factoring?)? How did you find this out?

Haha yeah that, stupid iFail autocorrect

Jeff Branstater ( BSM ) was blowing gearboxes using the " recommended " oil so he got a handful of the top name brand oils and had them independently tested and that test came back with that result so they switch to the RP and it stopped blow boxes

Edit: to add to that the new owner went back to the " recommended " oil and blow a boxes first day out IIRC

  • Like 1

My mistake, I thought it was the same bloke you were talking about, same car different owner.

I had better make sure before the job starts to find out exactly what I need for the box and diffs.

Usually with oil changes I do not bother and just let them do what they want, but since I will have a lot of torque and not changing the box, I want whatever can help.

  • 3 weeks later...

Okay so just to clarify

What is the best upgraded non OEM Gearbox to use for a daily driver that can handle big hp?

Not really keen on straight cut gears

Has anyone used a Hollinger for a daily?

Before anyone blasts me for that question I know its a 20k box

How long do they advise kms you can run the Hollinger I heard a rumor they need to be rebuilt ever 15,000kms

Is the OS 1-5 a helical gearset?

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