Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I had a bi-plane wing on my skyline that was broken by the local "bobbies" dropping the boot lid ( that they totally deny).

The mounting nuts inside the wing (in the fibreglass) were ripped out and I am unable to do frbreglass repairs.

Does anyone know where I can buy this wing or something very similar that "will" fit on an R33 Skyline coupe boot.

Ahy help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Shaun.

P.S. I am attaching pics of the wing when it was still on the car so you can see what I am looking for.

post-47374-1219923923_thumb.jpg

post-47374-1219924155_thumb.jpg

post-47374-1219924405_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233770-boot-wing-wanted/
Share on other sites

i think the 737's upgraded to this wing.. try looking for a wrecking one? lol

nah seroiusly that is a massive fiking wing aye.. surprised you don't gave bigger springs in the back to compensate for the drop in the car lol unless it's just the angle of the second pic???.. on a serious note.. why dont you take it to a fiberglasser and get them to re fiberglass it up as it will cost more then that to buy/spray a new one..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.
i think the 737's upgraded to this wing.. try looking for a wrecking one? lol

nah seroiusly that is a massive fiking wing aye.. surprised you don't gave bigger springs in the back to compensate for the drop in the car lol unless it's just the angle of the second pic???.. on a serious note.. why dont you take it to a fiberglasser and get them to re fiberglass it up as it will cost more then that to buy/spray a new one..

Nah mate.... This is Mount Isa. There are no fibreglassers here. I wish there was someone here that was good with fibregassers here. but it looks like I will have to but a new wing........

Love the comment about the 737. LOL.

damn mt isa!!! no fiberglassers and now you got a pack of ugly women on the way!!!... why not have a crack urself.. a diy kit is cheap.. fiberglassing is a piece of piss.. but messy.. cant hurt if ur just gonna chuck the wing

Here are a few sneak peaks of the latest Sniper Racing Dual Wing we have. Only have one in stock and unsure on the next delivery date. It's $249 in FRP.

Sweet. Will it fit a series 1??? There is another thing that I need before the wing.....

I bought a VeilSide rear bumper off Ebay, it's for a series 2 and did not fit my series 1.

Do you have any bumpers like that?

post-47374-1221392996_thumb.jpg

post-47374-1221393052_thumb.jpg

Sweet. Will it fit a series 1??? There is another thing that I need before the wing.....

I bought a VeilSide rear bumper off Ebay, it's for a series 2 and did not fit my series 1.

Do you have any bumpers like that?

Yes it will fit Series 1. The only differences in the series is the front end.

The rear bars and boots are the same.

Shane

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...