Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if this is the right place to post this thread.. (feel free to move it)

I've just had my motor rebuilt and I need to put some k's on it.

How would I go about doing this? as the car is not registered (being a track only car)

Would it be best to do it on the dyno? Jack the rear wheels up in the garage and drive stationary? (neighbours would love that! haha)

What have you guys done in the past?

Thanks in advance

Liam.

90% of your running in is done in the first 15mins after start up. you should have held engine at 2500-3000rpm for 10-15mins. this runs the cams in as well as beds the rings. some load on the dyno will also do it the world of good for 15-20mins, then tune it. not a great believer of running in engines as the first 15 mins are critical. if the rings dont bed in then, they never will.

i will be firing my engine and running the cams in while i bleed the cooling system, checking it for leaks, then tuning it.

Dont jack the wheels up as that would not give the engine any load and it wouldnt run in at all...

Dyno is the only real option, or you can try geting a movement permit for it and drive arround for a while

Agree with above^^ Run it in on the dyno, tune it up and off you go. Should take 15-20mins and then usual time for tuning etc

And off you go, both my RB25 and RB26 were done that way. I even was off to the drags the next day with the 25 :P

Rest of the work is done @ the track.

Just remembered that my unregistered vehicle permit dosnt expire until next wednesday lol

So I guess I'll do a few hundred k's tomorrow.

Also when it was first started for the first time it was driven around the block a few times etc

Thanks for your responses anyway

Liam. :P

90% of your running in is done in the first 15mins after start up. you should have held engine at 2500-3000rpm for 10-15mins. this runs the cams in as well as beds the rings. some load on the dyno will also do it the world of good for 15-20mins, then tune it. not a great believer of running in engines as the first 15 mins are critical. if the rings dont bed in then, they never will.

i will be firing my engine and running the cams in while i bleed the cooling system, checking it for leaks, then tuning it.

This Must Be One of those new DOHC rotarys I keep hearing about...:P

:P:P:P

What he said!!!

I'll have to bed in and run in my car too when I'm finished. Someone mentioned disconnecting the wastegate actuator arms to aid in bedding in rings (piston rings for me, apex seals for you).

90% of your running in is done in the first 15mins after start up. you should have held engine at 2500-3000rpm for 10-15mins. this runs the cams in as well as beds the rings. some load on the dyno will also do it the world of good for 15-20mins, then tune it. not a great believer of running in engines as the first 15 mins are critical. if the rings dont bed in then, they never will.

i will be firing my engine and running the cams in while i bleed the cooling system, checking it for leaks, then tuning it.

lol I dont think i need to run in the cams as I dont really have any..

but I do understand what your trying to say.

Cheers mate

Liam.

Just run it in on the dyno mate, that's what I'll be doing.

What does your engine builder recommend?

I spoke with the engine builder and he said that the dyno should be ok to finish the job as I have already done just over 200kms on the street.

so all is good, just have to find the time and cash to get it on there now haha

but back to your first question....I'm a firm beleiver in dyno for 3 reason

1/ you don't really get all that much track time on a day, even with an open track day at wakie

2/ dyno can load the car up properly and you can run set it to the rev and load levels you want

3/ its much easier to pick and stop if something goes wrong. like your radiator being a little shorter than the standard one, coming loose, hitting the fan and cooking your brand new motor. for example.

and number 4 reason:

4/ since on the dyno you are not actually driving, you can focus all your attention on the gauges, AFR, revs, dyno load and tuning and not worry about hitting people, cars, trees etc.

5/ on the dyno you can legally and easily drive to any speed you want, so it's a simple matter to load it up in 4th and 5th gears which is impossible on the road without breaking any laws and difficult on the track as duncan mentioned.

I am currently running in my 13BT as well. :P in an FD though (2001 RZ model). you can see some pics of the build here if you're interested. I had it built at Pre-stage in japan, small but excellent japanese rotary tuner.

http://photos.yahoo.co.jp/ph/cyoko810/lst?...rc=ph%26.view=t

http://www.prestage.rgr.jp/workscar.html

PS, I do believe anyone within a 3 block radius of my place is now slightly hearing impaired... :P

I am currently running in my 13BT as well. :) in an FD though (2001 RZ model). you can see some pics of the build here if you're interested. I had it built at Pre-stage in japan, small but excellent japanese rotary tuner.

http://photos.yahoo.co.jp/ph/cyoko810/lst?...rc=ph%26.view=t

http://www.prestage.rgr.jp/workscar.html

PS, I do believe anyone within a 3 block radius of my place is now slightly hearing impaired... :P

Haha they are loud bastards arnt they!

Pics look sweet as mate, are they brand new housings your using :P

How nice is that fc! I have heard of Pre-stage I actually used to have a pre-stage sticker on my fan shroud exactly where they have it in this link haha (purple to) http://www.prestage.rgr.jp/making/w990701.html

Do you have anymore pics of you fd?

cheers mate

Liam.

cheers guys, yeah I love it. :) The RZ version is a little special too, just 175 RZs' made it's the rarest FD RX-7 you can get. It comes with carbon kevlar recaros, BBS wheels, Bilstein shocks, updated interior, no rear seats, alloy foot panels, alloy bonnet etc. It's the lightest FD variant too.

Yep, brand new housings, they advised it was the best way to go and I didn't want to do it by halves. :P They did an awesome job with the build and kindly took lots of pics. I love the rotors but they just don't last. This car is a 2001 model with very few kms and no mods apart from the exhaust when I bought it, but it was already due for a freshen up!

I don't have any nice pics really, but here are some I took on the day it arrived in aus. very dirty!

26574284en5.jpg

59627877ca8.jpg

58905825na9.jpg

95237631my0.jpg

55412814jm6.jpg

41994848ib6.jpg

Nice Richard!

I'm curious to see how well you fit in it? From memory you're not short!

I was chasing an SP for a while and gave up. I sat in a few and it was a tight squeeze with the sun roof that's for sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...