Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its enough to get any turbo owners nose out of joint! :):D

Magnetic fuel saver, turbo zet or ebay power chip?

Excluding a 2.5L capacity increase or -600Kg , I don't think any turbo owner would be too concerned

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

havent been able to do the dyno run yet.......... :blush: have had to work endlessly atm and i need to change the oil aswell cause she has decided to chuck the shits on the pennzoil we put in just before Autosalon.....the oil is black as and that was after 4 weeks! so im putting in my Nulon Fully Synthetic again aswell as putting in a flush to get anycrap out.

Not necessarily a bad thing, as long as the oils still thick and theres good pressure, different oils have different detergents which can blacken the oil. I'm allways pedantic about my oil though and change on colour or 5000kms what ever comes first, including an oil flush.

Magnetic fuel saver, turbo zet or ebay power chip?

Excluding a 2.5L capacity increase or -600Kg , I don't think any turbo owner would be too concerned

pfffttt, More Nitrous.......?

I'm still wondering how your missing power has come back so suddenly from a change in knock sensors when you run a power FC...

Also, you seem pretty caught up on playing the numbers game...

A mates car went from making 195RWKW to making 160oddRWKW, yet, it still ran the exact same 1/4 mile times... Maybe when he lost power, the laws of physics changed also?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
well it wasnt actually..............thank you very much. dont ever assume anything with my car.

and just on a good note.........i am now proudly sponsored by MARTINI RACING.

So a sensor that provides feed back to a system, which does NOTHING with this feed back to alter ANYTHING, not even pull timing or change fuelling... Made a difference on your car?

Wow... I really want to know how it did that...

Unsure if you know, but having a knock sensor, having a dead knock sensor, and having no knock sensor, on a car with a powerFC will make it run EXACTLY the same... The only thing you'll notice, is the CEL flashing if you actually get knock, (Or if it's cactus it'll flash without there being any knock, and without the sensor, it won't flash at all)

But glad to see you picked up 50 bajillion killer wasps at the rear wheels...

So, when are we going to actually see this thing make a pass down the quarter to back up these over inflated dyno figures? Or, are you too scared to run it down the 1/4 as it'd prove you don't have all those killer wasps, just like you won't post a dyno sheet of how it's running now as you know the knock sensor did sweet f**k all, and if your mechanic told you it made a difference, you should quit going to him.

If it's you saying "it made a difference" get over the placebo effect.

i'm going to keep my opinions out of this, however a friendly reminder to everyone posting to keep comments civil.

if cara has done things with positive experiences then there really isn't much problem is there.

play nice :)

So a sensor that provides feed back to a system, which does NOTHING with this feed back to alter ANYTHING, not even pull timing or change fuelling... Made a difference on your car?

Wow... I really want to know how it did that...

Unsure if you know, but having a knock sensor, having a dead knock sensor, and having no knock sensor, on a car with a powerFC will make it run EXACTLY the same... The only thing you'll notice, is the CEL flashing if you actually get knock, (Or if it's cactus it'll flash without there being any knock, and without the sensor, it won't flash at all)

But glad to see you picked up 50 bajillion killer wasps at the rear wheels...

So, when are we going to actually see this thing make a pass down the quarter to back up these over inflated dyno figures? Or, are you too scared to run it down the 1/4 as it'd prove you don't have all those killer wasps, just like you won't post a dyno sheet of how it's running now as you know the knock sensor did sweet f**k all, and if your mechanic told you it made a difference, you should quit going to him.

If it's you saying "it made a difference" get over the placebo effect.

How manny killer wasps does your 33 make before melting into the tarmac, champ?

I wouldn't worry about the oil changing colour too much at all. Even synthetic will turn black - especially if the cleaning agents in most street engine oils are doing their thing.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...