Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having a huge cleanout of 32 GTR parts. All parts are in Melb. Frieght at buyer expense. I will get sizes and weight for you but you have to price the freight up and I will confirm it once you actually want it.

Gauges and Electronics

Apexi Electronic Oil pressure and Exhaust temp gauges and senders with max warning $300 pair

HKS Vane Controller - Very Rare and wanted.

Deletes the need for afm's and can control fuel rates $500

HKS Turbo timer $80 plugs straight into dash loom

Blitz and Mines ECU's $100 each

Engine/Drivetrain

Front drive shafts (need boots) $100 pair

Rear diff and drive shafts $250

Rear drive shafts $150

Blitz external venting BOV's $175 pair or $200 with std gtr pipe to mount on.

Grex Remote Oil Filter re-locator $150

3 GTR radiators $80 each Same as gtst.

Fuel tank with hangers/pump/sender/filler neck $250

RB26dett head with hang-ons, covers, turbos $1250

Complete block, crank, pistons pumps etc $600 Original bore

Sump with diff $250

Might sell some parts of engine for right money.

R34 GTR intercooler in excellent condition $300

Suspension/Brakes

Apexi Shocks height and damper adjustable $350 not to hard-nice

Front GTR calipers and 296mm drilled disks $225

Tein HA height and damper shocks and springs $500

324mm slotted disks-new, spacer kit to run 324mm disks and overhauled calipers and braided lines with heaps of set used performance pads Upgrading to big 355mm brembo's. Best upgrade you can do without spending thousands of dollars. Almost as good as GTR brembos. Same pad width just looses 5mm on height at the bottom. No brake fade running 1.23 at Sandown and 1.52 and PI or 20 min sessions running 1.10's at Wakefield with a few laps to cool engine oil down in the middle.

Will fit R32 gtst, gtr and R33 gtst

$650

Interior

Rear seat $150

Dash board VGC $125

Dash boards. Small boubles in front of passenger $40 each

2 sets nissan floor mats $80 each

Body

RH rear quarter window $60

LH door window w/tint $40

GTR fuel cap door $50

Rear Bumper reo $60

Original Windscreen $100

Door LH complete $75 no trim

RH door $30 bare

Few mirrors $30 each

Also have a shell for sale $2000 rolling with heaps of hang ons. Has import approval under old scheme so can be complied.

Please don't ask for other stuff as this all I have. No swaps either or low ballers. I won't get back to you if you offer stupid prices. Will budge on some stuff but no others. If you know what it looks like please don't ask for pics for silly things.

Some stuff is back up for sale due to time wasters so if I told you it was sold and its relisted I still have it.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers Mat. Sorry only selling the whole set. I need the money from the whole set for disks and pads for the upgrade.

Kevind but the shell and you can have the door rubber.

Bris you dirty world traveller. I can hear your car whining and howling in your garages corner like a neglected dog. Holding expecially for you.

I have the hinges for it but no internals. Hense the price. I should have a LH mirror but will need to check.

hey mate

what year is the crank from?

was after a late model for the oil pump drive issue?

cheers

No idea what year the crack is from. Its stilll in the bolck atm. What do I need to look for??? Don't really want to have to remove it as I don't have the space to store it once its apart.

Cheers Badgtr34. I'll get you the pics you requested soon. Had to remove the cover off one of the gauges to replace the globe so I need to get it back together before I take the photos.

I'll see whats involved to get the oil pump off.

hi, could i have pics (both front and rear) of the GTR intercooler? and what size is it also

Cheers

The intercooler is 60x300x600 and is very light weight compared to earlier models. They are a more efficient at cooling than the r32 and r33 gtr intercooolers. I am to believe these can cool/flow well enough to suppport upto 350ish rwkw

It a little dirty in the photo becasue it hasn't been clean since I removed it from the car a few months ago.

post-1670-1221359064_thumb.jpg

post-1670-1221359094_thumb.jpg

The diff came in a shell i bought. I removed the rear cover and the gears are in perfect condition-no spalling. There was also no metal paste sitting in the bottom of the housing. From what I can see it appears to be a very good diff that hasn't copped a hard time. The oil was very clean so I'm guessing the clutchs haven't been wearing. It turns freely with no binding.

hey buddy,

I'll come buy the rear diff and drive shafts now. Im at the shop so you can call me on 9338-5277 and we can talk details.

Regards Dave

Sorry. I cannot edit the first post. The rear diff doesn't come with the drive shafts. They are being sold seperately.

It is meant to read

Rear diff $250

Rear drive shafts $150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...