Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this true that the new versions from Japan allow you to make away with the air flow meter?

I am sick to death of air flow meters. fuel cut defenders etc etc.

Has anyone got one of these units yet? was it hard to install? how much did you pay for it ? where did you get it from?

How much better is the map sensor version compared to the air flow meter version ?

How much power did you get from the upgrade ??

what is the new version called? so I can be sure I am getting the right version ??

This is for a R33 GTST (RB25DET Series II)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23627-apexi-pfc-bye-bye-air-flow-meter/
Share on other sites

Yeh i have the New Power FC Pro on my GTR R32

It eliminates the use of Air flow meters etc...It uses 2 map sensors for my car...

I got it done at Croydon Racing Developments

But the wait on the Power FC PRO is really bad...I waiting about 4 months for my computer to arrive...

It also gives u 2 new functions

which are :

Ignition cut for rpm limiter

and

Launch Control :P:):(

hope that helps

i think it was $3,000 including dyno tune and fitting...But i think i got a discount because it wasn't the 1st time i was there....

EVL R33- Well apparently you can use AFM with this computer...But Because i have a T88 the worst thing you can do is put 2 AFM in front of it.... The Power FC PRO was designed for drag racing..So it allows you to run to Map sensors im using the (3bar map sensors) I dont really think they made all different kinds of Power FC's only he normal one and the PRO...So if you have the PRO version im guessing you dont need the AFM aslong as you get Map sensors...

Hope that helped...:D

  • 4 months later...

For most people keeping the AFM is not an issue. You have to be making a load more horesepower than most of the cars on this forum before an AFM (Z32 or Q45) is holding you back.

Of course the stock R33 AFM is supposed to be quite crap.

Before you race out and buy the Pro version, just check up what the different versions do. The reason I'm saying this is because I'm 95% sure that the Pro won't do what you want. From memory, the Pro version just adds a rev holding point when your not moving (for taking off at the drags) and a different way of rev limiting (ignition cut I think).

The one you're after is the D Jetro version. I don't think you can get a Pro version of the D Jetro. Anyway, do a bit of a read yourself, as I'm not totally sure of what I wrote above.

Cheers,

Michael

EDIT:

Took out possibly misleading info ;)

I dont know exactly:

I think it does something to the timing and fuel to put the engine under load without moving. I guess it does what all the other launch control systems do (they all build boost up).

I know for a fact that it does, I do it every day in my car.

Yeah the Pro has launch control and ignition cut rather than fuel cut, thats the only differences between the power fc and power fc pro. You must run AFM's with both these models.

The Power FC D-Jetro allows you to throw away the afm's and run map sensors.

Or so I was told when I was looking at getting a PFC Pro...

usually off load boost generation is done by cutting spark to individual cylinders in a non repetitive fashion, so the unburnt fuel ignites in the exhaust manifold and runs up the turbo rpm. Is a feature on some rally cars. Sometimes they just put an injector into the manifold and you get flames :flamed:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...