Jump to content
SAU Community

Squeaky V35 Brakes


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Ok so me and couple of mates are having similar problems with our brakes squealing.

we have all had our front discs(oem) replaced and front and rear brake pads(std nissan pads) replaced.

brakes dont squeal all the time but enough to be very annoying...doesn't matter if we are going forward or in reverse.

Any ideas ppls??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

Ok so me and couple of mates are having similar problems with our brakes squealing.

we have all had our front discs(oem) replaced and front and rear brake pads(std nissan pads) replaced.

brakes dont squeal all the time but enough to be very annoying...doesn't matter if we are going forward or in reverse.

Any ideas ppls??

I had the same problem on the front brakes. But only when i come to a stop slowly. I was told to brke a little harder and a little later for a while so the glazing/shine would come off the discs. Been trying it for a week now. and squeak is getting better. all so the De-squeck stuff from autobarn works really well. i'd say wear the discs and pads in first, then apply the dequeck to the discs. should work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing to do with anything related to a fault as such.

Simply, if the brakes where bedded in properly than it's a case of the combination of rotors and pads you're using. Some squeek others don't.

If they weren't bedded in properly you can try getting them machined and then bedding them in again.

I have heard people give the rotors a once over with some sand paper, but again if its just the combo your using then your only option is to change.

Personally I always believe that if your not doing track work, stick to Nissan pads. They have been developed not to squeek. People don't like squeeky brakes on new cars.

If you are tracking the car and have gone for a more track orientated pad/rotor then squeeking is a side effect. No real way around it. You can try different pads, but do you really have $$$'s to blow for a little squeeking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anti squeal shims may be warn out or forgotten to be put in when changing the pads.

causes noises in both reverse and drive, very high pitched and at any speed..

Not an expensive fix 84$ i got mine and maybe $40 if you goto a workshop to fit them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would put my balls on the fact that its the OEM pads

You normally only bet them one at a time Waz :)

Cliff

It sounds like the shims have been left out - common omission

Edited by Clikar23
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You normally only bet them one at a time Waz :)

Cliff

It sounds like the shims have been left out - common omission

Did you use the brake glue on both the back of the pads and on the shims, as this will definately help?

Just a light smear and it will let the pad settle in the right spot, especially good when bedding the brakes in...

If you also file a chamfer on the leading and trailing edge of the pads, it will stop a small shoulder appearing on the pads that can cause a squeal, but not normally until a bit of the pad thickness has gone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
×
×
  • Create New...