Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need a bigger turbo. :)

I find the GT30 to be really tractable. Part throttle the boost moves up with more throttle i give it. Its easy to have it just hanging on the limit so to speak.

If I don't feel like playing with the throttle - 80km/h in fourth still pulls plenty hard and will start to break traction at around 110km/h with half throttle in the wet :)

I need a bigger one? Nah, I'd much prefer a smaller one...

Running a modified T04R/66 is the best way I remember to explain it...

I wouldn't mind going to a GT35 spec turbo... From the little research I've done it should spool quicker, and give just as much top end...

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I need a bigger one? Nah, I'd much prefer a smaller one...

Running a modified T04R/66 is the best way I remember to explain it...

I wouldn't mind going to a GT35 spec turbo... From the little research I've done it should spool quicker, and give just as much top end...

lol well thats not the problem then lol.

The GT35's are very progressive on the 3ltrs and provide even better throttle control than my GT30.

So yours lags a tad then comes on like a sledge hammer?

With regards to suspension setup. Pushing in 12mm of cradle rake make a massive difference.

lol well thats not the problem then lol.

The GT35's are very progressive on the 3ltrs and provide even better throttle control than my GT30.

So yours lags a tad then comes on like a sledge hammer?

With regards to suspension setup. Pushing in 12mm of cradle rake make a massive difference.

Ha ha ha... Yeah, it's pretty much well how you describe it...

Builds around 5PSi at around 3700 - 3800 with foot buried to the floor...

it sort sticks at 5PSi until you get to around 4200RPM and then just smashes to full (Currently 14PSi) in a matter of around 10RPM... :D

In the wet, it was just a matter of, get it in 5th as soon as possible and don't try to accelerate at all...

That's with both my bald 255s on the rear, or the really good, 90% tread 235s...

It just starts to really torque up around 3500RPM...

Sounds frustrating/fun. :D

Get some 16's on it with a MT ET street that will fix your problems. :D

or for a reasonable price some of those Toyo R1R's in a 17" 255-265 with some decent sidewall.

Will still suck in the wet though lol. :(

Less of a challenge to keep it straight? maybe in the low revs :D

Turbo isn't going on till after Xmas :( got a track day mid-December and also need car going for Boxing Day Burnouts so not going to starting pulling things apart till after then.. trying to get things done for events usually ends in tears :D Will be putting a High Energy Pro-circuit sump on along with an oil return from the head and a new radiator before the track day (also just put a new waterpump and thermostat in ready for summer+burnouts).

Sounds frustrating/fun. :/

Get some 16's on it with a MT ET street that will fix your problems. :D

or for a reasonable price some of those Toyo R1R's in a 17" 255-265 with some decent sidewall.

Will still suck in the wet though lol. :)

What's worse is, it isn't even fully tuned... :) Rev limit kicks in at 5000RPM... :P

But I need new tyres, and at the moment it's a matter of finding some bloody good ones...

Are the Toyo tyres a semi, or a normal tyre? As I do a few, hard driven kays, and I don't want to wear out a set of semis doing road driving...

And you mentioned 15mm of rake? Explain?

As to the wet... It's always going to suck... Even in these "whales" :P

But still... As you pull past someone trying to be "tough" in their "done up" car, and you're 45 degrees sideways and doing about 100km/h... It does get fun, but VERY hairy...

And I know I can get 3rd gear going on the roll... Haven't yet attempted to snap 4th once it's spinning... But I reckon on the brake, start her off in 1st gear spinning, and it'd easily take 4th gear once you work up the gears...

I like the fact that I can load my Skyline full of stuff / people and drive around like I was in it by myself... oh oh oh, I also love the fact that I need to scream at the drive through attendant at Maccas in order to put my order through :/

As to the wet... It's always going to suck... Even in these "whales" :)

But still... As you pull past someone trying to be "tough" in their "done up" car, and you're 45 degrees sideways and doing about 100km/h... It does get fun, but VERY hairy...

And I know I can get 3rd gear going on the roll... Haven't yet attempted to snap 4th once it's spinning... But I reckon on the brake, start her off in 1st gear spinning, and it'd easily take 4th gear once you work up the gears...

One day I wanted to see if I could spin in the wet and shift up quickly through the gears.. made to 4th gear before I decided it was too silly and shut her down :) (that's with only 250rwhp and sticky tyres.. TORQUE FTW!)

P.S. ceffie, what sort of revs are you dialing in to take off in 5th? I definately wouldn't be able to do that with my 3.9:1 diff gears :/

Edited by bubba
One day I wanted to see if I could spin in the wet and shift up quickly through the gears.. made to 4th gear before I decided it was too silly and shut her down :) (that's with only 250rwhp and sticky tyres.. TORQUE FTW!)

P.S. ceffie, what sort of revs are you dialing in to take off in 5th? I definately wouldn't be able to do that with my 3.9:1 diff gears :/

I've bounced the limiter in 4th by mashing it once in secondand working up the gears in the wet. Not game for 4th in the dry...

In the wet for some reason as long as when I mash it, I'm straight, I have no issues keeping in a straight line... In the dry though, second gear usually means 45 degrees sideways, grab 3rd and it's normally fishtail 4 lanes of traffic...

Edit: As for taking off in 5th... Bugger that...

I always take off in second gear in the truck, or work ute, occasionally I've accidentally done it in the Skyline, I very quickly actually shift down into 1st, and let the clutch back out...

Mind you, button clutches don't like being slipped to take off with the torque required for 5th... And the light weight flywheel doesn't help it either...

Edited by MBS206
What's worse is, it isn't even fully tuned... :ninja: Rev limit kicks in at 5000RPM... :down:

But I need new tyres, and at the moment it's a matter of finding some bloody good ones...

Are the Toyo tyres a semi, or a normal tyre? As I do a few, hard driven kays, and I don't want to wear out a set of semis doing road driving...

And you mentioned 15mm of rake? Explain?

As to the wet... It's always going to suck... Even in these "whales" :(

But still... As you pull past someone trying to be "tough" in their "done up" car, and you're 45 degrees sideways and doing about 100km/h... It does get fun, but VERY hairy...

And I know I can get 3rd gear going on the roll... Haven't yet attempted to snap 4th once it's spinning... But I reckon on the brake, start her off in 1st gear spinning, and it'd easily take 4th gear once you work up the gears...

Rake is how much the front of the cradle is spaced down. I.e the pineapple traction setting.

Mine is spaced down as much as the amount of thread allows. So ~12mm. The arse end now noticeably sits down and gets weight over the rear.

Before the cradle rake it would spin and dance around on the spot now it feels like it spins and shoots off down the road. It won't just spin and not increase road speed. It will now spin a bit but with road speed not far behind. Can be a little dangerous if the wheel alignment is not setup right (i.e not running any toe in on the rear) and you over correct as it quickly wants to shoot you off the road.

Running a little toe in and its fairly fool proof. It tends to slightly sit off to the left or right and just sit there swaying slightly. Without toe in its all over the place. :S

Mash the throttle in third at 60km/h. By 80km/h its swaying the rear ever so gently, providing I don't ease off it and keep it mashed it will continue to sway until I grab fourth at ~150km/h.

Rolling on the throttle weight gets over the rears and it will generally hook up well.

Second gear yeah just spins so I almost never really mash it. If I want to give it a little I'll usually bring second up so it just spins ~50-60km/h and then grab third where it will light up and then its hold on. :D

One of the broken rb20det gearbox's I had to drive home in fourth. Traffic light starts, driving up to the shed/pit. That clutch didn't last too long after that. :(

The R1R's are not quite a semi but damn close. Tread wear of 140 vs the R888 of 100.

I still run 225/50 16's. Don't knock it until you see how well it hooks up. :P

I've ran 245 and 265 in 18's with a low profile tyre and they just didn't hook up in a straight line. Noticeable improvement around corners though.

The R1R's in 225/50 16's are $230 each so not so bad.

I plan on racing my car at the drags quite a bit this year (fingers crossed everything gets sorted on it beforehand) so ill have to try out the ET Streets + 4th gear burnout start.

Still a bit skeptical but ill sure try. Normal street tyres would do it easy but RIPS do them on ET Streets piece of piss.

Rake is how much the front of the cradle is spaced down. I.e the pineapple traction setting.

Mine is spaced down as much as the amount of thread allows. So ~12mm. The arse end now noticeably sits down and gets weight over the rear.

Before the cradle rake it would spin and dance around on the spot now it feels like it spins and shoots off down the road. It won't just spin and not increase road speed. It will now spin a bit but with road speed not far behind. Can be a little dangerous if the wheel alignment is not setup right (i.e not running any toe in on the rear) and you over correct as it quickly wants to shoot you off the road.

Running a little toe in and its fairly fool proof. It tends to slightly sit off to the left or right and just sit there swaying slightly. Without toe in its all over the place. :S

Mash the throttle in third at 60km/h. By 80km/h its swaying the rear ever so gently, providing I don't ease off it and keep it mashed it will continue to sway until I grab fourth at ~150km/h.

Rolling on the throttle weight gets over the rears and it will generally hook up well.

Second gear yeah just spins so I almost never really mash it. If I want to give it a little I'll usually bring second up so it just spins ~50-60km/h and then grab third where it will light up and then its hold on. :down:

One of the broken rb20det gearbox's I had to drive home in fourth. Traffic light starts, driving up to the shed/pit. That clutch didn't last too long after that. :P

The R1R's are not quite a semi but damn close. Tread wear of 140 vs the R888 of 100.

I still run 225/50 16's. Don't knock it until you see how well it hooks up. :ninja:

I've ran 245 and 265 in 18's with a low profile tyre and they just didn't hook up in a straight line. Noticeable improvement around corners though.

The R1R's in 225/50 16's are $230 each so not so bad.

Looks like I now know what tyres are going on my stockies... :D

I've always looked at the 17s running 255/40 on the rear as not having enough sidewall flex for straight lining it (Excellent in corners though!) and now that I'm going for more out right straight line then bothering with corners... I'll go to a smaller rim, larger sidewall.. :(

Edit: What's it like to launch in 1st gear? Is the setup good for a drag run at WSID, or still massive amounts of wanting to spin up in 1st and second?

Edited by MBS206

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...