Jump to content
SAU Community

Ok.. So I Saved Some Money And Want To Buy A Bodykit..


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've been working a fair bit and saved some money for a bodykit (for my s1 33), i was thinking top secret or 400r or something similar..

But my question is where the hell in vic can i get them from (around SE suburbs) All i know of is driftline but their site is pretty useless and doesnt list any skyline bodykits or anything, and also where abouts you guys would recommend fitting and spraying? What are micolour like? price wise and quality wise?

I want it to look good, but doesnt have to be a really expensive (zomg showroom condition) i want a reasonable price for fitment and spray.

Can you guys suggest some places? I know theres a sticky but its fairly outdated

Oh and also what do you guys think of the top secret kit on a 33?

thanks, leigh.

well if u interested i have a trial rear bar for the 33 if u want. wanna get rid of it. fibreglass. only want $120 for it. cost me almost double that when i got it. unpainted at the moment, still bare fibreglass with gel coat.

pm me if u interested

I've used Imperial Finish Body Works on centre road in Springvale before for a repaint of some parts. Also my mate has on his 32 GTR. Both were top notch jobs. However both were insurance jobs so unsure of pricing. Give Murray a call, good bloke.

to fit and paint, i've already bought the kit just awaiting the courier.

top secret kit ftw!

keep us informed on how the job goes.. would like to see the kit up and running

yeah that seems like a good price, DT do some good work. Im goin there to get my kit and some panel stuff fixed up.

DT do some great work at very reasonable prices, I had my side skirt repaired (was cracked) and re-sprayed. Since they made a hairline crack in it when putting it back on they took it off and fixed the tiny crack :)

Excellent service and good quality work.

  • 2 weeks later...

got my car back from DT, i wouldnt call there work the best but pretty much for the price i think it is good. One major problem is the wing rubs against my rear window seals.. :) so yeh going to try and fix it up myself, heres a couple of pics. (sorry bout quality phone pics)

post-34834-1223851154_thumb.jpg

post-34834-1223851207_thumb.jpg

Tell me what ya think

keep in mind its a n/a, a rare occasion indeed hehe. Will be going turbo in about a year.

btw whats the legal ride height? some are like 10cm.. which will fit some are like a can of coke.. which wont i dont think lol

Looks pretty decent

100mm is legal, so that nothing like the diff or exhaust hits something that's 100mm high.

N/A hey? Need 5 stud and big brakes? :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...