Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

e36 m3 are awesome, i think 3.0s are more livey standard than 3.2s thanks to less refined factory suspension set up.

a mate of mine won rally tas in an e36 m3r about five years ago. his was an awesome car and he had an top suspension set up using ground control coilovers, eibach springs, thicker bars and tops. his 3.0 engine was good for 210kws at the wheels, but before he lost a battle with cancer this year he had been working on a 3,400cc engine that would have been good for 330 at the wheels. his plan was to do a small production run of them called the m3rs for tarmac rallying that looked just like a standard m3r, but with factory high-rise wing, carbon panels, 18s, big brakes, motec, titanium exhaust and plenty of other goodies... i'd still like to put one together and stick it to the dirty porsches like he planned to again

  • 5 months later...
  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well u have written off the idea of getting a Cossie to import (i dont even have a house with a garage so crazy to import one :P )

So that leaves me with a bit better budget. I can stretch it up to 25K Australian, so now entertaining the idea of an E46 M3, 350Z or 968CS. But then i look at the prices of sorted EVO IVs and they are less then 5,000pounds.

Has anybody driven a 964 Porsche? I have only driver earlier model 911 which has the shitty seating position and pedal position. Are 964s still cursed by this?

I am still thinking E36 M3 is the best all round bet...but E46s are not that much more expensive, are way better cars and the thought of importing it after 12 months makes way more sense then with an E35 or E30 325iS

I have looked at Skylines but thinking that if i stretch the dollars a little further then a friend can garage it for me over there and when he comes back at Xmas he can import it for me. So looking for a car that makes sense to import. Something European would be cool as i will be following the Tour De France up to day 9 where the plan is to leave the Tour an drive through Andalusia, through Lake Zahasa on the way to Bay of Biscay. Should be a pretty fun 21 days if driving through all those cool roads, especially if i can squeeze in a day at Jerez

Lookd at M5s, but the age and cost of servicing etc puts me off them, also the fuel economy thing. I want an Exige but...lol i dont have the 60k for one :blink:

Needs to be rwd, reliable or at least not cost the earth for parts and ready to eat plenty of kms and do some track hack stuff. M5 is appealing as it has plenty of space

If i am getting an E30 it will be a 325is. As cool as the E30 M3 is they are way too expesnive for what they are. 325is with its 6 cylinder for 1/4 of the money is the go.

Have found a nice E36 Evo M3 (does anybody know what the Evo designates?) It has APs, some suspension work and breathing mods. Looks neat too although he is asking top money for it. Still under Aus$15,000 so hopefully my mate gives it a clean bill of health

If i am getting an E30 it will be a 325is. As cool as the E30 M3 is they are way too expesnive for what they are. 325is with its 6 cylinder for 1/4 of the money is the go.

Have found a nice E36 Evo M3 (does anybody know what the Evo designates?) It has APs, some suspension work and breathing mods. Looks neat too although he is asking top money for it. Still under Aus$15,000 so hopefully my mate gives it a clean bill of health

yeah i know the E30s are already overpriced, but how much are they in the UK? a good one here is $60K! a decent E35 can be had for $30K or so, so keep that in mind when buying a 36. I can't remember what the EVO model gets, probably some body bits, maybe a bit of carbon here and there. sht like that. always worth getting the 'special' models though. if it's good it sounds like a winner. and when you bring it back to aus you can flog it to me cheap as I love the 36s too and they are half the price and twice the car of an E30. but only half as cool. :blink:

Well just waiting for a friend to inspect and test drive, then comes the "breaking of thee's balls over price" . I am too nice when buying stuff hence why my mate will be offering sound financial advice when he goes into negotiations. :D

Hopefully it comes off. This looks to be a nice enough example that i import it back to Aus. Though a friend pointed out that i should just export my R32 for the drive around?!?!? Sounded silly at first until we discussed it. Do you have to cancel local rego if you are going to export your car for a few months? I just think itsd easier to bring my garbage home then it is to export my garbage ;) Plus we have just short listed a dirty Ford as well that is cheaper, more fun but no doubt a waste of money :)

...and yes i look at TVRs forthnightly. I want one bad, but even i am too practical and do not want to be spending too much cash on fixing stuff. The later the model the better, but they are all well over 20,000pound

Well u have written off the idea of getting a Cossie to import (i dont even have a house with a garage so crazy to import one :P )

So that leaves me with a bit better budget. I can stretch it up to 25K Australian, so now entertaining the idea of an E46 M3, 350Z or 968CS. But then i look at the prices of sorted EVO IVs and they are less then 5,000pounds.

Has anybody driven a 964 Porsche? I have only driver earlier model 911 which has the shitty seating position and pedal position. Are 964s still cursed by this?

I am still thinking E36 M3 is the best all round bet...but E46s are not that much more expensive, are way better cars and the thought of importing it after 12 months makes way more sense then with an E35 or E30 325iS

LOL Roy,

you have come to the right man!

yep i have driven a 964 porsche and i liked it so much i brought this

post-28646-1237352033_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...