Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people - I'm looking to lower my '99 RS4-S within the next few weeks and I'd just like to know what other people in here have and what is a good way to go about it.

Ideally, I'd like coilovers so I can adjust the height when needed, but they're so expensive and I was told that Whiteline lowered springs are good quality and well priced.

Even if someone has a 2nd hand set they're selling...

What would you suggest?

(prices and part no.s would also be great)

Edited by Unbalanced
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241867-recommendations-for-lowering/
Share on other sites

There are plenty of topics and posts about this, please do a search in future!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ion-t53079.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rs-t236559.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...lin-t85592.html

The main difference is that at the rear you will use a different mount at the bottom of the rear shocks due to your car being a factory manual.

There are plenty of topics and posts about this, please do a search in future!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ion-t53079.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rs-t236559.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...lin-t85592.html

The main difference is that at the rear you will use a different mount at the bottom of the rear shocks due to your car being a factory manual.

Yeah, i did do search but I wasn't really sure where to start. Thought it'd be easier to start up my own thread.

Anyways, I've had a look on nengun and their prices seem to be reasonable and exactly what I want... So I might pick up a set of Tein Super Wagons... But for that I might have to get into some overtime at work...

Anyways, I've had a look on nengun and their prices seem to be reasonable and exactly what I want... So I might pick up a set of Tein Super Wagons... But for that I might have to get into some overtime at work...

Just for your information, tein do not make coilovers for the rs-four s, which i believe is what you said you have.

Dang - I must've misread. And yes, you're right. RS4-S.

Get the Bilsteins (I did) and that will give you some height adjustment. If your shocks are still in good nick you will be able to sell them to someone with shot shocks who doesn't want or can't afford better handling. The Whiteline part no for my rear bar was BNR11XZ but mine is AWD - RS4T series I so it may or may not fit your car.

Does anyone have the part # for the fron and rear Bilstein Suspension with the lowering clip specifically for the RS4S?

Considering the rears are a fork type what would the part number be? I am going with the advice to leave the stock springs and use height adjustable suspension.

Cheers

Does anyone have the part # for the fron and rear Bilstein Suspension with the lowering clip specifically for the RS4S?

Considering the rears are a fork type what would the part number be? I am going with the advice to leave the stock springs and use height adjustable suspension.

Cheers

I don't know that there is an off the shelf part specifically for your application ( I could be wrong). The three grooves for alternative circlip heights are a standard feature that should suit most people but you can get more machined in for extreme applications. I don't know if there is a special Bilstein for the rear "fork" but I do know that a proper Bilstein agency (and a quick Google suggests they are spread across Australia) will be able to adapt the fitting and the valving to suit your car. Depending on where you are the phone book should be a good place to start enquiries.

Just for your information, tein do not make coilovers for the rs-four s, which i believe is what you said you have.

If TEIN don't make coilovers for the RS4-S, then what do I have in my garage then. I have a set that was in my RS4-S that needs one serviced and then they are going back in. Super Street Damper type NA, is what is written on them.

If TEIN don't make coilovers for the RS4-S, then what do I have in my garage then. I have a set that was in my RS4-S that needs one serviced and then they are going back in. Super Street Damper type NA, is what is written on them.

i didnt think they made those anymore?

use Bilstein shocks with lowering circlips, and use standard springs

use Whiteline swayabrs and bushes

she'll be sweet

:thumbsup:

Can the standard springs be used with the bilsteins? I can't remember from the group buy thread (pics have gone awol) but I thought the whiteline springs were shorter?

Edited by DaveB
Can the standard springs be used with the bilsteins? I can't remember from the group buy thread (pics have gone awol) but I thought the whiteline springs were shorter?

Yep, they can. The Whiteline springs are shorter, but you'll be using spring compressors to remove the factory springs anyway, so just leave the compressors on the factory springs, replace the shock with the circlips at your preferred height, and then with the standard spring back in place, fit and tighten the top hat properly before *carefully* removing the spring compressors.

Mine are similar, Super Street Damper HA. Height/Dampner adjust.

RS4 4WD.

If TEIN don't make coilovers for the RS4-S, then what do I have in my garage then. I have a set that was in my RS4-S that needs one serviced and then they are going back in. Super Street Damper type NA, is what is written on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...