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I noticed on the V35 forum that a lot of guys have changed the way the tiptronic shifts, ie pull down to go up the gears instead of push up. Which is the more natural way I believe. Also the way XR6s are configured I noticed the other day.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...Di-t189357.html

Has anyone done this on their S2/R34 ?

I dont think the wiring will be difficult to work out but the + and - symbols look impossible to change, any ideas apart from stickers ? Although Im the only one who drives it, apart from the odd mechanic...which would be a worry....6500revs in 2nd then goes for 3rd only to get 1st.

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I noticed on the V35 forum that a lot of guys have changed the way the tiptronic shifts, ie pull down to go up the gears instead of push up. Which is the more natural way I believe. Also the way XR6s are configured I noticed the other day.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...Di-t189357.html

Has anyone done this on their S2/R34 ?

I dont think the wiring will be difficult to work out but the + and - symbols look impossible to change, any ideas apart from stickers ? Although Im the only one who drives it, apart from the odd mechanic...which would be a worry....6500revs in 2nd then goes for 3rd only to get 1st.

I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?
I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?

I have done the reversal to the M35 and I now know that it will not select a lower gear at high rpm. I had enough time to think about what I did and select the higher gear in the new direction....

I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?

Yep, you are right, it would just keep revving in same gear until it hit limiter.

my wifes euro will change up gears if you dont change it. it will also change down if you slow to a stop (back to 1st) and if it feels like it will struggle

something i dont like, and it seems the stagea does it too!! but i dont think to the point of the honda. i was hoping the tiptronic would be smarter, but its almost like an auto that sometimes lets you choose a gear, but ultimately its in charge.

exactly the reason i'm going manual soon

my wifes euro will change up gears if you dont change it. it will also change down if you slow to a stop (back to 1st) and if it feels like it will struggle

something i dont like, and it seems the stagea does it too!! but i dont think to the point of the honda. i was hoping the tiptronic would be smarter, but its almost like an auto that sometimes lets you choose a gear, but ultimately its in charge.

my wifes euro will change up gears if you dont change it. it will also change down if you slow to a stop (back to 1st) and if it feels like it will struggle

something i dont like, and it seems the stagea does it too!! but i dont think to the point of the honda. i was hoping the tiptronic would be smarter, but its almost like an auto that sometimes lets you choose a gear, but ultimately its in charge.

The M35 box will not change up till you make it no matter what revs you give it BUT is you slow right down it will choose a lower gear when you accelerate but it does not change down as easily as when in D.

Cheers

Andy

The M35 box will not change up till you make it no matter what revs you give it BUT is you slow right down it will choose a lower gear when you accelerate but it does not change down as easily as when in D.

Cheers

Andy

Yeah that's the C34 behaviour as well; it will just bounce off the limiter. But if you slow to a stop, it'll shift up to 1st.

I have always thought of doing this conversion; just 2 microswitches with about 4 wires to reverse. Assuming it's a purely electrical job, which I think it is. I will get around to it sometime soon, and post some pics. I'm sure someone must have already done it... the + and - signs will just take on a different meaning; ie. I think of "shifting UP" as changing from 3rd->2nd, or 2nd->1st etc. (ie. shifting the RATIO up) and downshifting as 3rd->4th etc (shifting the RATIO down)...

PS

Do anybody's S2 + and - lights illuminate at night? I replaced the two globes on the driver's side of the gearstick and now my gear indicators sort-of light up, but the + and - buttons stay dark... which seems wrong.

PS

Do anybody's S2 + and - lights illuminate at night? I replaced the two globes on the driver's side of the gearstick and now my gear indicators sort-of light up, but the + and - buttons stay dark... which seems wrong.

mine don't either. when i looked at the bulbs that were in there they were a 5w globe, and the biggest i've been able to find in the shops is 1.2w. i'm going to keep an eye out for the 5w ones and see if the + and - light up with them.

Hmm, mine dont either, gonna have a quick look now, got some time before work.

Dunno about this reversal, the standard way feels ok.

Last time i had the console out it did look as easy as swapping the dip switches.

Check your steering wheel surround see there's a flap either side, looks like

where you'd expect cruise control buttons, im thinkking of making up flappy paddles

to mount from there somehow and connect into the existing switches.

mine don't either. when i looked at the bulbs that were in there they were a 5w globe, and the biggest i've been able to find in the shops is 1.2w. i'm going to keep an eye out for the 5w ones and see if the + and - light up with them.

I think the theory behind the 'other way' is, in high powered cars (not mine) you are changing gears with the 'G' forces and not working against them under accel and hard braking. eg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC6tTFp4W4o

Yeah the dip switches look easy to reverse, only one little circlip and locating boss.

Or could swap/transpose the wires between switches.

With the lights, only two globes on the drivers side with a diffuser that goes around

all the gear selections including the + & -, however even with two new bulbs in

the + & - still dont light up.

Need brighter bulbs or retro fit a bulb/led on the left somewhere and they should light up fine.

That sounds logical.

I think the theory behind the 'other way' is, in high powered cars (not mine) you are changing gears with the 'G' forces and not working against them under accel and hard braking. eg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC6tTFp4W4o

chook thats exactly what i think too!

the current standard setup is for dumb people (no offence to anyone who likes it that way). so its push forward to go faster and back to slow down. simple! no thought required

maybe ill 'work from home' tomorrow and do this. seems quite easy!

It is literally a 10 minute job. Just take care taking out and putting back in the center console if this is your first time. On the front of the shifter surround there is a piece that sticks down, this need to locate in a hole that keep the shift surround centered. It is very easy to break off if not careful.

Read the attached instructions on console removal, http://g35ipod.com/installHW.php?skin=1&src=mp3car-sig, part 17-20 are the relevant ones.

Cheers

Andy

You have got me inspired. I just did the orange light run around hobart, only time when I use the tiptronic. Orange light run = in hobart lots of one way streets, and to get through the lights all in one go becuase of the timing you need to take many corners very quickly, accelerate and brake fast and hope to get through on an orange light, about 6 traffic lights in a row on three different roads....

I had to brake so quickly, I agree about the g-force thing, it makes sense to push the lever forward to go down a gear. You've all given me a job to do on the weekend!!!

Just locate the dark green and grey on the RHS of the selector assembly. They run from the dip switches on the LHS, around the back and into a white pin block. There is plenty of slack in the wires, so cut them at equal points at the most assessible point, swap them and join them with either crimps or solder and heatshrink.

I also found one of my bulbs was gone, replaced it, took that silly blue cover off the bulbs, still not that bright and I dont think it would ever light up the + and - unless you use some serious wattage, rather strange design from Mr nissan san.

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