Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed on the V35 forum that a lot of guys have changed the way the tiptronic shifts, ie pull down to go up the gears instead of push up. Which is the more natural way I believe. Also the way XR6s are configured I noticed the other day.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...Di-t189357.html

Has anyone done this on their S2/R34 ?

I dont think the wiring will be difficult to work out but the + and - symbols look impossible to change, any ideas apart from stickers ? Although Im the only one who drives it, apart from the odd mechanic...which would be a worry....6500revs in 2nd then goes for 3rd only to get 1st.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241931-tiptronic-reversal/
Share on other sites

I noticed on the V35 forum that a lot of guys have changed the way the tiptronic shifts, ie pull down to go up the gears instead of push up. Which is the more natural way I believe. Also the way XR6s are configured I noticed the other day.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...Di-t189357.html

Has anyone done this on their S2/R34 ?

I dont think the wiring will be difficult to work out but the + and - symbols look impossible to change, any ideas apart from stickers ? Although Im the only one who drives it, apart from the odd mechanic...which would be a worry....6500revs in 2nd then goes for 3rd only to get 1st.

I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?
I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?

I have done the reversal to the M35 and I now know that it will not select a lower gear at high rpm. I had enough time to think about what I did and select the higher gear in the new direction....

I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?

Yep, you are right, it would just keep revving in same gear until it hit limiter.

my wifes euro will change up gears if you dont change it. it will also change down if you slow to a stop (back to 1st) and if it feels like it will struggle

something i dont like, and it seems the stagea does it too!! but i dont think to the point of the honda. i was hoping the tiptronic would be smarter, but its almost like an auto that sometimes lets you choose a gear, but ultimately its in charge.

exactly the reason i'm going manual soon

my wifes euro will change up gears if you dont change it. it will also change down if you slow to a stop (back to 1st) and if it feels like it will struggle

something i dont like, and it seems the stagea does it too!! but i dont think to the point of the honda. i was hoping the tiptronic would be smarter, but its almost like an auto that sometimes lets you choose a gear, but ultimately its in charge.

my wifes euro will change up gears if you dont change it. it will also change down if you slow to a stop (back to 1st) and if it feels like it will struggle

something i dont like, and it seems the stagea does it too!! but i dont think to the point of the honda. i was hoping the tiptronic would be smarter, but its almost like an auto that sometimes lets you choose a gear, but ultimately its in charge.

The M35 box will not change up till you make it no matter what revs you give it BUT is you slow right down it will choose a lower gear when you accelerate but it does not change down as easily as when in D.

Cheers

Andy

The M35 box will not change up till you make it no matter what revs you give it BUT is you slow right down it will choose a lower gear when you accelerate but it does not change down as easily as when in D.

Cheers

Andy

Yeah that's the C34 behaviour as well; it will just bounce off the limiter. But if you slow to a stop, it'll shift up to 1st.

I have always thought of doing this conversion; just 2 microswitches with about 4 wires to reverse. Assuming it's a purely electrical job, which I think it is. I will get around to it sometime soon, and post some pics. I'm sure someone must have already done it... the + and - signs will just take on a different meaning; ie. I think of "shifting UP" as changing from 3rd->2nd, or 2nd->1st etc. (ie. shifting the RATIO up) and downshifting as 3rd->4th etc (shifting the RATIO down)...

PS

Do anybody's S2 + and - lights illuminate at night? I replaced the two globes on the driver's side of the gearstick and now my gear indicators sort-of light up, but the + and - buttons stay dark... which seems wrong.

PS

Do anybody's S2 + and - lights illuminate at night? I replaced the two globes on the driver's side of the gearstick and now my gear indicators sort-of light up, but the + and - buttons stay dark... which seems wrong.

mine don't either. when i looked at the bulbs that were in there they were a 5w globe, and the biggest i've been able to find in the shops is 1.2w. i'm going to keep an eye out for the 5w ones and see if the + and - light up with them.

Hmm, mine dont either, gonna have a quick look now, got some time before work.

Dunno about this reversal, the standard way feels ok.

Last time i had the console out it did look as easy as swapping the dip switches.

Check your steering wheel surround see there's a flap either side, looks like

where you'd expect cruise control buttons, im thinkking of making up flappy paddles

to mount from there somehow and connect into the existing switches.

mine don't either. when i looked at the bulbs that were in there they were a 5w globe, and the biggest i've been able to find in the shops is 1.2w. i'm going to keep an eye out for the 5w ones and see if the + and - light up with them.

I think the theory behind the 'other way' is, in high powered cars (not mine) you are changing gears with the 'G' forces and not working against them under accel and hard braking. eg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC6tTFp4W4o

Yeah the dip switches look easy to reverse, only one little circlip and locating boss.

Or could swap/transpose the wires between switches.

With the lights, only two globes on the drivers side with a diffuser that goes around

all the gear selections including the + & -, however even with two new bulbs in

the + & - still dont light up.

Need brighter bulbs or retro fit a bulb/led on the left somewhere and they should light up fine.

That sounds logical.

I think the theory behind the 'other way' is, in high powered cars (not mine) you are changing gears with the 'G' forces and not working against them under accel and hard braking. eg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC6tTFp4W4o

chook thats exactly what i think too!

the current standard setup is for dumb people (no offence to anyone who likes it that way). so its push forward to go faster and back to slow down. simple! no thought required

maybe ill 'work from home' tomorrow and do this. seems quite easy!

It is literally a 10 minute job. Just take care taking out and putting back in the center console if this is your first time. On the front of the shifter surround there is a piece that sticks down, this need to locate in a hole that keep the shift surround centered. It is very easy to break off if not careful.

Read the attached instructions on console removal, http://g35ipod.com/installHW.php?skin=1&src=mp3car-sig, part 17-20 are the relevant ones.

Cheers

Andy

You have got me inspired. I just did the orange light run around hobart, only time when I use the tiptronic. Orange light run = in hobart lots of one way streets, and to get through the lights all in one go becuase of the timing you need to take many corners very quickly, accelerate and brake fast and hope to get through on an orange light, about 6 traffic lights in a row on three different roads....

I had to brake so quickly, I agree about the g-force thing, it makes sense to push the lever forward to go down a gear. You've all given me a job to do on the weekend!!!

Just locate the dark green and grey on the RHS of the selector assembly. They run from the dip switches on the LHS, around the back and into a white pin block. There is plenty of slack in the wires, so cut them at equal points at the most assessible point, swap them and join them with either crimps or solder and heatshrink.

I also found one of my bulbs was gone, replaced it, took that silly blue cover off the bulbs, still not that bright and I dont think it would ever light up the + and - unless you use some serious wattage, rather strange design from Mr nissan san.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...