Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not much of a rexy fan but i still know they are pretty good cars.... anyway there was a thread on here before that i started about how ugly the current rexy looks.... well it looks like Subaru listend to the cries of its fans and has confirmed a new and improved wrx is in production for 2009.

Subaru MY09 WRX gets a thumping 195kw!

2009-wrx-3.jpg

When the bug-eye WRX was launched by Subaru in 2000, there was a hushed silence and it was widely decreed by the press after a few test drives that whilst the new model was a nicer drive, more refined and had much improved handling, it had lost the spark and thrill of the outgoing MY00 "classic" model. In short, some thought that Subaru was losing the plot somewhat. The facelifted MY03 and new 2.5L MY06 showed that Subaru was listening.

Then came the MY08 WRX and the press reviews were even less inspiring that those about 'ole bug-eye. Recently coming last in its category in the 2008 Motor BFYB competition, the MY08 WRX was even declared by someto be unworthy of the WRX name. Subaru wasn't losing the plot, it had lost the plot.

Today, at Sydney's Motor Show, Subaru have once again shown they were listening with the announcement of the revamped MY09 WRX. There have been rumours for a few weeks, and last week we got inside knowledge that the MY09 was going to get a serious dose of steroids, and now here it is. Get this - 195kw (up 26kw), 343Nm of torque (up 23Nm), upgraded suspension, and wider tyres (225/45x17, versus 205/50) all point to a much more serious WRX. Indeed, the MY09 WRX has as much power as the MY02-05 STi, and is lighter too! We can't wait to get our hands on it.

sorry just found the info now, i know its 2 weeks late lol

im sure itsbetter than the current model and has bigger power to try and save the wrx name

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242573-my09-wrx-back-to-normal/
Share on other sites

saw the n/a version on the fwy the other day - didnt look special to me. Reminded me of a kia rio. Maybe the rex would do something for me.

I agree, totally not impressed. My friend, thats a mechanic for Subaru, reckons the wrx is just as shit.

I think they committed suicide with that design; the wrx was always popular because of its classic shape. They screwed it up with the bug eyes and just when they finally got the front just right......they screw it up again.

the evo is fantastic though; right through since the gsr range

its just the sedan version of the 08 model. The americans had the sedan released alot earlier then us (obviously as is normally the trend), they may very well be classifying it as the 09 model. But as i said it is basically the sedan version of the 08, because they had always planned to have the sedan and hatch versions

actually there are many

Audi A4 B8, Audi A5, VW R32, BMW 5 series with M kits,w204 c class with AMG kits, BMW e92 coupe. that's all in my mind at the moment.

btw the evo X is not that bad either

Edited by EKSMUD

i'm very biased as a evo fan and i always try to find faults with the impreza's even though i do admit that they are nice cars but it is trye that they are lacking in the exterior design department. I have no idea why they haven't stayed with one design theme for example mazda/bmw/honda but thats probably just cause all their designs were shit LoL.

On the other hand a standard 195kw is massive. hopefully the new ralliart lancer can stand up to it. The evo X with the 217kw does have a bit over the sti though.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...