S1 Turbo

[66yostagea]

That's what I used to clean just inside the ports... but I was too worried about debris/bits of metal bristles getting in the cylinders to go any deeper

Vacuum clean as u go.

Edited November 13, 2008 by 66yostagea

[Xmetal]

no flames?

Remove cat converter.

[DaveB]

Vacuum clean as u go.

True, could do that. Maybe I'm just lazy... but what if a valve is open? Won't stuff goes straight into the cylinder, out of reach of my (pathetic) vacuum cleaner?

[66yostagea]

you can turn the engine so that each valve is closed when you clean. Zimpel.

[DaveB]

lol yeah the ultimate solution

[66yostagea]

I finally got the manifold off. The back banjo bolt on the turbo nearly deconstructed my shoulder reconstruction. No lol.

The turbo appears AOK. There are four broken studs to get out.

Nos 1, 2 and 6 exhausts were all leaking past the gaskets. I got a new set of gaskets, studs and nuts from Nissan. $247.00. I dont know yet how much to remove the studs, I just hope that they can come out without taking the head off.

In the meantime I am enjoying driving my "New" RMR30.

[DaveB]

I finally got the manifold off. The back banjo bolt on the turbo nearly deconstructed my shoulder reconstruction. No lol.

The turbo appears AOK. There are four broken studs to get out.

Nos 1, 2 and 6 exhausts were all leaking past the gaskets. I got a new set of gaskets, studs and nuts from Nissan. $247.00. I dont know yet how much to remove the studs, I just hope that they can come out without taking the head off.

In the meantime I am enjoying driving my "New" RMR30.

Wow, sorry to hear you had a much harder time getting your manifold off then I just did. Seems that this little procedure is much harder to perform on an R33 engine than an R34? Maybe it's just because of K's/age; how many K's had yours done? Mine was 110,000...

I bought new exhaust manifold gasket, studs and conical-locking nuts from Nissan and my total was ~$192; I know that turbo-manifold gasket is around $40-ish though, and a dump gasket is the same.

The turbo water and oil lines SUCK, in my opinion... I'm going to do as suggested and take the solid oil line to pirtek and get a braided hose made, hopefully around $60-ish, to make things a bit easier to put back together. Hopefully I won't have to use banjos with it still, because they also suck (fiddly copper washers to get on).

The temptation is there to replace so many things while it's apart... just think... all that work to get back here again to change turbo, gasket, manifold, dump, EGO sensor etc. etc.

Edited November 16, 2008 by DaveB

[66yostagea]

Yippee. Justin came over and got the broken studs out in situ. If anyone needs a similar job done call 0407768450.

Incidently his set of L/H drills, 4 off, cost $350.

[DaveB]

I read that you have your turbo back on... how'd you go with it, are you driving the car again? Was it a GCG hi-flow you put on?

[66yostagea]

I read that you have your turbo back on... how'd you go with it, are you driving the car again? Was it a GCG hi-flow you put on?

No, the turbo was OK, so I put it back on. I am pretty sure the problem was a loose hose on the turbo inlet rather than the leaking exhaust gasket. The noise only occured when the boost came on. With the brakes on I could run up to about 5 psi and it was very noticeable, at about 2k+ revs. At 3-4K in park, ie no load, no boost, the noise was not apparent.

Finished the job yesterday and it drives like a Stagea should. I also cut the corrugated part of the hose between the AFM and the turbo.

I will keep the stock turbo I bought and get the mannifold repaired so they will be good to use if needs be.

[DaveB]

glad to hear you're now one of the lucky ones who's factory ceramic turbo is _not_ whining its head off!

Did you replace the corrugated part of your inlet pipe with a metal tube (as mentioned somewhere here in a '5 minute DIY' or something similar)? Also helps stop 'sucky closed under boost' though you probably won't have that problem with the factory turbo I guess.

[66yostagea]

glad to hear you're now one of the lucky ones who's factory ceramic turbo is _not_ whining its head off!

Did you replace the corrugated part of your inlet pipe with a metal tube (as mentioned somewhere here in a '5 minute DIY' or something similar)? Also helps stop 'sucky closed under boost' though you probably won't have that problem with the factory turbo I guess.

I did the inlet pipe bit.

Each time I do a bit og mod the car gets better. Went for a run out the back blocks today. Very satisfying.