Jump to content
SAU Community

S1 Turbo


66yostagea
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

And a billion more cans of WD40 or similar...
Yep give them a good spray and leave them overnight . Before applying twisting torque give them a good tap end on with a hammer. I call the extractor things ezy-outs which may or may not be a brand name. Use a small drill to make a hole as central as possible and then enlarge the hole before tapping in the extractor tool. Not a nice job. Good luck.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some

im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

Edited by jippa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

Sorry to hear you're having such a hard time of it... my old studs all came out pretty easy with just a lock-nut and ratchet. They look near new. I was beginning to wonder if there was anything to this stud problem... but sounds like you have the proof. Taking any pics along the way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some

im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

Actually it transpired there was SFA wrong with the turbo but I have got a spare JIC. I"m takink pics all the way. When saga is over will post all.

Incidently, what are the best type of studs, I will be replacing all of them.

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
Share on other sites

$2-3 at a guess

one of the traders here at SAU seems to be getting good prices on gaskets etc in the FS section

Damn, wish I knew that before I paid a couple hundred for gaskets ;)

Yeah I used genuine nissan ones; I have a picture of the packet around here somewhere... they cost me ~$40 for a dozen I think? Which is the absolute maximum it should cost you really. There's nothing special about them; just mild steel although they do have some fancy high-temp coating. But the ones I took out were at least 110,000 K's old and they looked near new (just a little duller) so yeah put them in with some nickel-based high-temperature anti-sieze anti-bind compound (a tiny tiny bit on the end threads of the stud) when you put them in the block and they should be fine for at least another 100,000K's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here we are... genuine Nissan nuts (conical type locking):

post-32445-1226402195_thumb.jpg

...and the genuine Nissan studs & hi-temp anti-sieze/bind compound I used on the studs:

post-32445-1226402206_thumb.jpg

Nuts cost me ~$21 for a dozen (:()

Studs cost me ~$50 for a dozen ( :domokun: ) so I was had a little there... but they were just down the road and it was convenience factor :) Now studs are done :P

btw, spoke to the turbo guy and the first thing he recommended was to change out all old studs if possible and re-fit exhaust manifold after checking for cracks; which apparently are usually small and white and often seen running through the pale blue/grey sections of the exhaust manifold (which are where it has become really hot).

You can see a few of these blueish-grey areas here:

post-32445-1226402567_thumb.jpg

...fairly obvious where they are eh :)

Good luck all :(

PS Gee u get some crud building up in the exhaust ports...

post-32445-1226402790_thumb.jpg

Edited by DaveB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not knowing which valves are open or closed means not knowing which cylinders the stuff will fall straight into; I had a bit of a go with the small brass-bristled brush which is why you can see some of it chipped away, but I didn't want to go too far in over the valves. I'm just hoping that using good fuel (ie. Ultimate or VPower) will keep it clean...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't matter if you get UCC in the cylinders, it's designed to burn off if it gets into the combustion chambers - you'll find that the car will blow a shitload of white smoke for about 10secs but it'll clear up after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't matter if you get UCC in the cylinders, it's designed to burn off if it gets into the combustion chambers - you'll find that the car will blow a shitload of white smoke for about 10secs but it'll clear up after.

no flames? :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if you could spray some upper cylinder cleaner in there and use a toothbrush to clean them out?

Takers?

Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

That's what I used to clean just inside the ports... but I was too worried about debris/bits of metal bristles getting in the cylinders to go any deeper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...