Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Avc-r is better and you will have another pretty screen in your car.

The price difference in the price between the kit and the avc-r isn't big!!!

I had an solenoid and a map sensor for avc-r and I made a hand-made harness for the pfc so it is worth!! And also I hate many gauges and screens in my car.

i definately recommend the avc'r as the apexi boost controller kits are useless and unreliable

What the? The AVC'R is Apexi and uses the same solenoid as the Power FC Boost Kit.......

So how did you come to that conclusion?

same logic, same code, same solenoid, same map sensor, same functional control

the avcr has option of

-gear based boost control

the powerfc boost control kit has option of

-boost correction based on intake temp

-boost overrun protection (fuel cut on the ecu if boost spikes 0.25kgcm2 past target boost)

-boost display on hand controller

-boost displayed in logs with datalogit

-boost correction based on intake temp

-boost overrun protection (fuel cut on the ecu if boost spikes 0.25kgcm2 past target boost)

Yup, its these reasons that made me go with the PFC over AVCR boost controller for my car...

Edited by MintR33

I'm also in the market to get a new EBC, so far I got the AVCR and PFC addon Boost controllers in mind...

-boost overrun protection (fuel cut on the ecu if boost spikes 0.25kgcm2 past target boost)

-boost display on hand controller

If the PFC boost controller is so good, then why would you be getting boost spikes?

Also, this concerns me, because i got rid of my stock AFM and got a PFC to remove the fuel cut, I wouldnt wanna be getting fuel cuts again...

Edited by EVL-R33
can anyone compare these two boost controllers with the greddy provec b spec 2 boost controller?? how do they compare??

get the profec B II mate. easier to set-up, plus you have a dedicated display which shows the peak boost reached during each burst of acceleration which is very handy when you are tuning the thing. they are easy to install, light and easy to read.

get the profec B II mate. easier to set-up, plus you have a dedicated display which shows the peak boost reached during each burst of acceleration which is very handy when you are tuning the thing. they are easy to install, light and easy to read.

thats what i have been told also, and they're at a pretty good price aswell, and my tuner recommended it too.. thanks mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...