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hey, i think most of you have probably seen my older thread about my stag that keeps missing. i just thought i would ask a couple of questions. i noticed something weird yesterday, i desided that i should change the plugs again and since my miss has once again temporarily disapeared i would turn the boost up to 10psi, so in goes the turbosmart boost-t and temporary boost guage, 57 clicks later it hits 10psi but my miss has returned, unplug boost t and runs like a dream, plug in boost t again and u guessed it its back. so for now ive sunk back in my hole of accepting the power ive got. but im just wondering if after all this time its just the rich and retard thing thats going wrong. like when i pulled the old plugs out they still looked like a perfect running plug, no carbon or burn marks just a lil bit of colour rom normal running. is there any thing people recomend to fix this. i have thought mayb apexi safc but unsure if it will fix the issue. also is there any awd dynos in south east qld that give discounted dyno runs to sau members??

thank you everyone for reading another one of my miss typed threads.

(only mods ive got are a just jap dump, gutted cat, hks high power cat back and k&n panel filter.)

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yep, don't think a dyno run will tell you much more than you already know....ecu is probably sensing too much airflow and protecting the engine. SAFC will help if this is the issue and if the tune leans it out at the range where it is missing.

My guess is its your coil packs. I have the same issue with my car if i raise it to around 10-11psi. Put it on the dyno and it was breaking down around 4000rpm with healthy AFR's. Should have new ones in shortly then back on the Dyno with 12psi :P

Edited by SHIZNT

Start by getting a set of Splitfire coilpacks - these will eliminate the spark breakdown you *might* be getting.

Also if you bought new spark plugs what gap were they set to? Higher boost usually calls for a narrower spark plug gap of 0.8mm.

If the car still feels like it's pushing against the glass wall then it'll be the ECU retarding the timing. an S-AFC should fix that for you.

Your SMIC is probably starting to reach its limit too if you're going higher in the boost range.

I had the same problem and I traced it back to dodgey coil packs but I was still getting R&R at high boost.

Start by getting a set of Splitfire coilpacks - these will eliminate the spark breakdown you *might* be getting.

Also if you bought new spark plugs what gap were they set to? Higher boost usually calls for a narrower spark plug gap of 0.8mm.

If the car still feels like it's pushing against the glass wall then it'll be the ECU retarding the timing. an S-AFC should fix that for you.

Your SMIC is probably starting to reach its limit too if you're going higher in the boost range.

I had the same problem and I traced it back to dodgey coil packs but I was still getting R&R at high boost.

I would recommend getting an Apexi SAFC (basic MK1 will do the job or get a Mk2 or neo if you're keen or build the Jaycar one) and an Apexi SITC. Otherwise you have no way of tuning your car.

[i don't think the nistune tunable ecu is ready for our Stageas yet] The SMIC shouldn't be a problem yet but there was a R34GTT one for sale which should see you through to 200 -210 AWKW if you don't want a FMIC in the future. As an insurance replace your (presumably 10 year old) fuel pump and get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

spark plug gap is set at .8 as recomended on here. does anyone know of any stores that sell splitfires at a discounted price?? what does it normally cost to have a safc installed??

im not so much chasing more power just a relieable car, im getting to the point where im ready to do an insurance job on it so i can get a toyota again.

I would be more inclined to look at your plugs - if it was dodgy coilpacks it wouldn't go away under a milder boost. Sounds to me like the spark is being "blown" out at higher boost levels. Either look at moving up to iridium plugs, or try gapping the copper ones down to 0-7. Might not work, but give it a try.

(IMO, a "miss" and R+R are 2 very different things)

thats why i thought it was possibly r+r, and what i originally thought was a miss feels more like its stuck at certain rpms and is struggling to rev harder. so im guessing this is the "wall" that its hitting as mentioned earlier. kinda feels like revlimiter but a quicker space between bursts, for eg. rev limiter is like this rev..............rev.............rev.............rev, but this is like rev...rev...rev...rev.

so yer. im lost

Wrap your coils with insulation tape. Take them out and wrap them up, give it a go you may be suprised. costs nothing to try.

NO!

do it properly

if you go this way, DO NOT use tape. Use hi-temp 400degree+ industrial strength silicone sealant ($12 + $3 corking gun) from bunnings.

apply the silicone all around the coils. MUCH better than tape.

works as well, mine were good after this!

NO!

do it properly

if you go this way, DO NOT use tape. Use hi-temp 400degree+ industrial strength silicone sealant ($12 + $3 corking gun) from bunnings.

apply the silicone all around the coils. MUCH better than tape.

works as well, mine were good after this!

NO!

This will cost you money! you are not sure if your coils are f*#ked thats why you asked for our advice. Insulation tape will tell you if they are for little or no outlay. Then you can weigh up your options. Wonder why you didn't recommend this in the first place Tangles?

I am just offering advice to diagnose an issue, not a solution. So many experts here. I won't need to contribute anymore. Good luck with your car bud.

spark plug gap is set at .8 as recomended on here. does anyone know of any stores that sell splitfires at a discounted price?? what does it normally cost to have a safc installed??

im not so much chasing more power just a relieable car, im getting to the point where im ready to do an insurance job on it so i can get a toyota again.

Tut Tut. Wash your mouth out.

XMETAL - you are exactly right, thats what it does.

RB30DETT & TANGLES - how about i wrap the coil packs in tape then use silicon?? then you are both satisfied

66YOSTAGEA - i think its a valid idea since ive neva had any problems with any of the toyota ive owned or my father has owned, and they are known for their reliability and power.

The problem with the tape is it will go soft and peel off at high temperature, while the silicon is like an epoxy it will set HARD and resist high underbonnet temps.

Try the tape by all means, just don't expect it to last if it works. Although it might mean pulling the coil packs out twice it will tell you if getting your fingers sticky is worth the effort :D

Tape didnt fix my coil issues at all. Only replacing them worked.

The issue felt like it had little power around 4-5000 RPM then took off after that. It also started to develope a miss at around 2500-3000 rpm on full load.

grow up FFS

using tape in a 400degree engine (800 at exhaust) is plain STUPID, it wont last

using hi temp industrial strength silicone (selley's 401, $13 a tube) all around the coil packs helps stop wasted spark, but if one is shagged obviously wont help

fyi: the silicone covered ones worked perfect; I upgraded to splitfires to run 1bar day long with no issues, didnt want tune issues on the dyno.

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