Jump to content
SAU Community

Micolour Sau-vic Deca Nov 08 Wrap Up

paulr33

By paulr33,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

I've got a few video's to post but probably won't happen until later this week, a little busy at the moment.

Also need to find a good website to upload them too, probably just youtube...

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
Posted

My car used to do the same thing when I first got it.

I got Kamikaze Motors - Nunawadding to seal mine up. Hasn't leaked since. They have some crazy 2-part putty stuff, works great.

Also they are a club sponsor.

Sandeep Community Regular

Sandeep

Posted
Posted

Nick you can try selley's "knead it", can get it from bunnings. i tried using sikaflex and loctite sealant on mine but since they are soft setting, the seal would break eventually. Then used the hard setting selley's knead it and haven't had any leaks since.

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
Posted
Nick you can try selley's "knead it", can get it from bunnings. i tried using sikaflex and loctite sealant on mine but since they are soft setting, the seal would break eventually. Then used the hard setting selley's knead it and haven't had any leaks since.

Yeah I think that's what they might have used at Kamikaze.

she_spools_180 Rookie

she_spools_180

Posted
Posted (edited)

computer has been down, but yeh...

put in new suspension a few days before deca, as well as larger front brakes and front rims, TOTALLY not used to the car, i did so much worse than the last deca... :ermm: aghh so frustrating, went home thouroughly disappointed and unsatisfied for this reason, need to hit the streets for the next few months (not really!) and need to get used the the car again, handles completely differently when sideways, so much more twitchy......ugh!

need to do more adjustment, tried a bit, but having four runs on the skid pan meant that there was little time for adjustment.

anyway, backtrack this time however, was WAYYYY better, (except the basketball court bit where you had to the the car sideways) the awesome grip and non existent sidewalll flex of the new rim/tyre combo was awesome on the back track, (a few days before deca i still had the same rims on the front as i did on the back, MASSIVE sidewalls)

anyway, have to get used to this new suspension before next time,

one down side of this deca was waiting times, previous deca i have been to, there were 3 groups, skid pan was divided in half, and the tracks were a bit smaller, meant almost everything was first gear, and you didnt have to try to slam/crunch/force it back into first on corners following some of the longer bits of the SAU motokhanas when you have a very thoroughly used 1st syncro like i do.

also this meant that you could go on more runs, and do more adjusting to the set up of that car if that is what you need to do (as some of us cant really do this on the road)

...and i enjoy tighter tracks...maybe cos of the lighter stature of my car...

and upside however was the numbering of the cars which meant that you could go in order, but that fell appart towards the end anyway.

Nick you can try selley's "knead it", can get it from bunnings. i tried using sikaflex and loctite sealant on mine but since they are soft setting, the seal would break eventually. Then used the hard setting selley's knead it and haven't had any leaks since.

i can vouch for this, used sandeep's 'kneak it' and mine doesnt leak anymore either woot :(

Edited by she_spools_180

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...