Jump to content
SAU Community

Is Skyline Worth It?

cdw666

By cdw666,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

cdw666 Rookie

cdw666

Posted
Posted (edited)

okay, im contemplating getting a 1996 R33 Gts-t or a 1997 or 1998 Honda Prelude VTIR. The skyline seems to be misfiring a bit, but everything else seems good. It also comes with 1 year warranty (prob just mechanical). The skyline's done 99,000 kms, and the Prelude's done 170,000 km. The prelude seems to be running fine. My issue is that for the next one year, i need to choose the car that is not going to give me any problems what so ever. I prefer to have the skyline, as it is powerful and a very nice drive. However, I understand that skylines can be a bit of a money pit. I dont mind putting money into it after a year, but until then, i can't afford to do anything for it except doing its regular servicing and insurance. What do u guys think? Get the skyline with the lower Kms with misfiring but with 1 year warranty or the prelude with the high kms, seems to be running fine and no warranty? Thanks in advance.

P.S. i understand that as this is a skyline forum, you guys obviously have a love of skylines, but an objective, unbiased opinion would be appreciated :):(

Edited by cdw666
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245513-is-skyline-worth-it/
Share on other sites
Skyenate Collaborator

Skyenate

Posted
Posted

All cars are a money pit, not just Skylines :) Also unrealisitic to expect that any car will abide by your rule of not playing up for a year sadly LOL

Obviously get the Skyline though based on Ks if nothing else :(

gt-ahhh! Proficient

gt-ahhh!

Posted
Posted

its the same as anything really. my skyline has been a one nightmare after the other. but then again, my sisters barina is starting to fall apart now. and at least my cars a lot hotter and more powerful (when its working lol)

another thing you should consider is police attention. because that can be a pain in the ass also. and expensive.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I've got both atm. I'm wondering what the 1 year limit is all about? Are you going o'seas; or do you have another car lined up in a year?

Because, if you're going to keep the car for just a year, and if the 'Lude is in good cond. I'd definitely get the 'Lude.

Why?

Because even if you get an aftermarket warranty on the 'Line, it won't cover the 100,000Km service unless you get that done as part of the deal!

Do you know how much the 100,000Km service costs?

If you get the 'Lude, you'll only be approaching the 200,000Km service by the end of a year and then you can let the next owner worry about that. My VTiR has just cost me $900 for the 200,000Km service (which included the hydraulic tensioner - a common replacement).

Now, lets turn the equation around a bit.

If you can wrangle the 100,000Km service as part of the purchase price, I would definitely take the 'Line. But sort out if that spluttering is in the engine or the 02 sensor, or AFM, or some other sensor etc etc.

As a RWD, it'll give you much more driver satisfaction over the 'Lude (FWD) even if it's the more expensive ATTS where on corners, the outside wheels rotate quicker than the inside wheels. The 5th gen 'Lude does not have 4WS unless it's a Jap import (JDM).

My 'Line (although it's a GT-R) uses 12l/100Km and 14l/100Km if stretched

My 'Lude uses about 9l/100Km as a daily

Hope this helps!!

Tez

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted

he graduates in a year. till then, money will be tight (as for all uni students) however with our course its very hard to work parttime and neither of us wants to put too much burden on our olds to support us. only difference with me is that i;ve already got my line.

charuth with wat you've told me, i'd say go for the lude. didja have a look at the white one?

  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...