Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I contacted 6BOOST today and they are kind enough to offer a huge saving off there top quality Manifolds.

All Turbo Manifolds are designed around a unique "Merge collector". This type of collector technology has been used in the highest forms of motor sport for years, but never applied commercially to turbo manifolds anywhere in the world. The design of the merge collector is such that all gases are directed at the turbine entry; no pipes enter across each other, disrupting gas flow. The distinct look and design of the collector is easily recognisable, with the pipes entering in a circle and forming a "point" or "spire".

With this collector technology we have seen anywhere from 200-400RPM faster spool and gains in the region of 6-15% in power in back to back dyno testing, even on highly tuned race engines. Every single engine that has been back to back tested to date has made more power and spooled faster. All manifolds are constructed from thick wall mandrel bent steam pipe and are designed and built in Australia to be of the highest quality available. All manifolds are heavily sandblasted inside and out and coated in high temp exhaust enamel that has proven to stand the excessive heat of a turbocharged environment. They also come with studs and nuts for your cylinder head and turbo flanges are faced and hand ported ready to be used.

All 6boost manifolds come with a lifetime warranty against cracking and defects, an Australian first in turbo manifold manufacture.

Manifolds pricing is:

RB20/RB25 - $950

RB20/RB25 Split Pulse (faster spool up) - $1000

SR20 - Prices up soon

If you are interested in rb26, 1jz, xr6 turbo, etc... contact me via PM and i will double check pricing, but im pretty sure its the same.

Remember you can get High/Low Mount, Internal/External Gated manifolds, all the same price. We need 6 people, a $100 deposit will be taken befor the manifolds are made. If you require a different flange please specify so and it can be made to your choice. If we do not get 6 manifolds the price will be about $50 more. RRP is $1200. Manifolds will be purchased late December.

List:


  1. 1.Choku_dori - RB20/25 high external, sr20 high external - deposit taken
    2.Shilohr32gtr - rb26 single high mount - deposit taken
    3. wisey18 - R34 RB25DET Stock location, low mount, internal gate - waiting deposit
    4. Tamimego - (ns.com) low mount sr20det t28 internal gate - waiting deposit
    5. blockasR32 - RB26 Single High mount External gate - deposit taken
    6. bigadz - lowmount sr20det manifold standard flange for GT2871R internaly gated - deposit taken

post-39806-1227771481_thumb.jpg

Edited by 2rismo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246661-6boost-steampipe-manifolds/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes sorry, i havent got a price for RB26 yet. If you are interested i will call them and organise something.

Okay, ill ring tomorow and get more specifics like, twin single high or low for the RB26's. Ill update it tomorow.

Anyone know how i can edit my first post... it wont let me :(

PM replied

1. Choku_dori (2 manifolds)

2. Shilohr32gtr

3. wisey18 - R34 RB25DET Stock location, low mount, internal gate

Deposits are made to...

National Australia Bank

Acc Name: Leon Minic

BSB: 084-792

Acc Number 79-164-3300

Edited by choku_dori

I may be interested in a High mount for sr20det with external gate, standard flange for gt2871r, what type of prices?

Whats delivery like? ie im in Perth

PS: update your first post with all the relevant details it saves reading all your posts

Edited by volt_bite

Not quite sure what you mean by a balancer pipe. But Twin low mounts are $1100. If you want twin high mounts let me know and i can have that arranged, but must be BEFOR monday.

If anyone can help me out in editing my first post would be very appreciated :unsure:

SR20DET High or low internal or external all $800!!!!!!!!!!!!!

List...

1.Choku_dori (2 manifolds) - deposit taken

2.Shilohr32gtr - rb26 single high mount - deposit taken

3. wisey18 - R34 RB25DET Stock location, low mount, internal gate - waiting deposit

4. Tamimego (ns.com) low mount sr20det t28 internal gate - waiting deposit

5. blockasR32 RB26 Single High mount External gate - deposit taken

Edited by choku_dori
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...