Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i would think a torque splitter would be ok

don't quote my but my thoughts are its only if you change the emissions they they get funny

nah its anytime you change the manufacturers specification they dont like it

thats why aftermarket ecu's and boost controllers are also illegal, nothing to do with emissions - they simply want you to leave the car the way the manufacturer intended it as they dont trust aftermarket mods from a safety point of view - which of course we know is nonsense but thats the govt for ya really...

-D

nah its anytime you change the manufacturers specification they dont like it

thats why aftermarket ecu's and boost controllers are also illegal, nothing to do with emissions

No offence but that is quite wrong,

Changing boost and ecu's WILL change emissions from the car. If you can prove that they don't (get an engineers report with an emissions test and appropriate gear to change emissions so they're equal or less than manufacturers specifications) then regency will not pick on you for that at all. This usually involves getting a very conservative tune and fitment of 2 catalytic converters so it can get costly.

Ive gone through 4 times in the last year, have had guages, swaybars, nolathane adjustable suspension bushes, brake bits and pieces, a tightly shimmed diff etc etc all fitted to my car and have passed through with them on. Last time i went through I had 4 guys look over my car at the same time and still passed.

They check over cars and make sure they are up to road standard, has nothing to do with stock or not. First time I went through my car was a dead stock automatic granny special and i had to replace bushes, tie rods, one suspension linkage and a few hoses.

$214 for first inspection. $71 for 2nd.

Holyyy macaronyyyy!!!!! $214 for first inspection? farkk that sounds exspensive..... i used to always pay $143 for the first inspection unless the price have gone up??

nah i dont think thats right as your car was from interstate

There was a defect inspection going on next to me and it was identical, they even used the same forms. I had changed my engine and upgraded brakes though so they used the brake dyno and drove it around the block, perhaps that was what the extra cost was. I had heard the price had gone up recently though so I thought that was just the going rate for a full roadworthy, or perhaps a defect inspection is not classed as a 'full roadworthy'.

So yeah maybe it was $143 + extra? Best bet it to call and confirm, take you 5 minutes.

Edited by Rolls
No offence but that is quite wrong,

Changing boost and ecu's WILL change emissions from the car. If you can prove that they don't (get an engineers report with an emissions test and appropriate gear to change emissions so they're equal or less than manufacturers specifications) then regency will not pick on you for that at all. This usually involves getting a very conservative tune and fitment of 2 catalytic converters so it can get costly.

so you could get a bigger turbo and fit a few catalyic converters and presuming it met emissions it would be legal?

so you could get a bigger turbo and fit a few catalyic converters and presuming it met emissions it would be legal?

It needs to have a full emissions test which is expensive and often hard to meet. You also often need upgraded brakes and various other things which will need an engineers report etc.

You would be looking at a few thousand dollars to get it all signed off and road legal.

It needs to have a full emissions test which is expensive and often hard to meet. You also often need upgraded brakes and various other things which will need an engineers report etc.

You would be looking at a few thousand dollars to get it all signed off and road legal.

what he said ^^

emissions test is one thing, youll need to have en engineer hire out a test track for a day and test out the brakes etc etc.

Emissions tests are easy to get past, its the other tests that an engineer has to do that cost a lot more. Best bet is to call up a regency approved engineer and have a chat to him about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...