Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i would think a torque splitter would be ok

don't quote my but my thoughts are its only if you change the emissions they they get funny

nah its anytime you change the manufacturers specification they dont like it

thats why aftermarket ecu's and boost controllers are also illegal, nothing to do with emissions - they simply want you to leave the car the way the manufacturer intended it as they dont trust aftermarket mods from a safety point of view - which of course we know is nonsense but thats the govt for ya really...

-D

nah its anytime you change the manufacturers specification they dont like it

thats why aftermarket ecu's and boost controllers are also illegal, nothing to do with emissions

No offence but that is quite wrong,

Changing boost and ecu's WILL change emissions from the car. If you can prove that they don't (get an engineers report with an emissions test and appropriate gear to change emissions so they're equal or less than manufacturers specifications) then regency will not pick on you for that at all. This usually involves getting a very conservative tune and fitment of 2 catalytic converters so it can get costly.

Ive gone through 4 times in the last year, have had guages, swaybars, nolathane adjustable suspension bushes, brake bits and pieces, a tightly shimmed diff etc etc all fitted to my car and have passed through with them on. Last time i went through I had 4 guys look over my car at the same time and still passed.

They check over cars and make sure they are up to road standard, has nothing to do with stock or not. First time I went through my car was a dead stock automatic granny special and i had to replace bushes, tie rods, one suspension linkage and a few hoses.

$214 for first inspection. $71 for 2nd.

Holyyy macaronyyyy!!!!! $214 for first inspection? farkk that sounds exspensive..... i used to always pay $143 for the first inspection unless the price have gone up??

nah i dont think thats right as your car was from interstate

There was a defect inspection going on next to me and it was identical, they even used the same forms. I had changed my engine and upgraded brakes though so they used the brake dyno and drove it around the block, perhaps that was what the extra cost was. I had heard the price had gone up recently though so I thought that was just the going rate for a full roadworthy, or perhaps a defect inspection is not classed as a 'full roadworthy'.

So yeah maybe it was $143 + extra? Best bet it to call and confirm, take you 5 minutes.

Edited by Rolls
No offence but that is quite wrong,

Changing boost and ecu's WILL change emissions from the car. If you can prove that they don't (get an engineers report with an emissions test and appropriate gear to change emissions so they're equal or less than manufacturers specifications) then regency will not pick on you for that at all. This usually involves getting a very conservative tune and fitment of 2 catalytic converters so it can get costly.

so you could get a bigger turbo and fit a few catalyic converters and presuming it met emissions it would be legal?

so you could get a bigger turbo and fit a few catalyic converters and presuming it met emissions it would be legal?

It needs to have a full emissions test which is expensive and often hard to meet. You also often need upgraded brakes and various other things which will need an engineers report etc.

You would be looking at a few thousand dollars to get it all signed off and road legal.

It needs to have a full emissions test which is expensive and often hard to meet. You also often need upgraded brakes and various other things which will need an engineers report etc.

You would be looking at a few thousand dollars to get it all signed off and road legal.

what he said ^^

emissions test is one thing, youll need to have en engineer hire out a test track for a day and test out the brakes etc etc.

Emissions tests are easy to get past, its the other tests that an engineer has to do that cost a lot more. Best bet is to call up a regency approved engineer and have a chat to him about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...