Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question.

If i get an engine rebuild with all the internals done like pistons head work etc and the stock turbo rebuilt if for some reason i have to go threw regency will they pick up on this at all?

Would they be able to tell whats been done to the motor and turbo seeing as will still look ''stock''?

Just a quick question.

If i get an engine rebuild with all the internals done like pistons head work etc and the stock turbo rebuilt if for some reason i have to go threw regency will they pick up on this at all?

Would they be able to tell whats been done to the motor and turbo seeing as will still look ''stock''?

If you change the cams, they'll be able to notice it by the idle, if not the emissions (if they do an emissions test that is).

Stock turbos rebuilt with steel wheels will be undetectable if theyre in the stock turbo housing however you wont be able to have a boost controller fitted as that is a defectable mod.

Depends on how stock you go - obviously getting new gaskets, seals, springs, forged internals etc are just replacement parts but if they suspect you've worked the engine they can quite easily suggest an emissions test - and lumpy cams are a dead giveaway

-D

Just a quick question.

If i get an engine rebuild with all the internals done like pistons head work etc and the stock turbo rebuilt if for some reason i have to go threw regency will they pick up on this at all?

Would they be able to tell whats been done to the motor and turbo seeing as will still look ''stock''?

I had a rebuilt rb25det and a highflowed gcg turbo. Now the turbo looked brand new as it had been sandblasted, I made sure to remove the GCG logo and just told the guy it was rebuilt to standard specs.

As far as the motor theres no way in hell they are going to know if its got forged pistons or not, I know they couldn't tell with me.

If you change the cams, they'll be able to notice it by the idle, if not the emissions (if they do an emissions test that is).

- and lumpy cams are a dead giveaway

-D

im running cams with a lumpy idle and i didn't have a problem at all when i went through regency

im running cams with a lumpy idle and i didn't have a problem at all when i went through regency

Guess you were lucky then dude... knowing regency, I wouldnt give them the rope to hang me with...

Also, a customer of my mechanics had a very lumpy cam put into his commodore - 3 weeks later he was defected because the police officer suspected modification (due to the idle creep) and sent him down to regency who then told him he could only keep the cams if it passes the emissions test.

No idea if he had the test done as I've heard that emissions tests arent cheap - just think its something to be wary of.

Like Damo said tho, they wont strip ur engine apart to see whats in it, but its really not hard to chuck a gas analyzer on the exhaust and see how its running...

-D

Guess you were lucky then dude... knowing regency, I wouldnt give them the rope to hang me with...

Also, a customer of my mechanics had a very lumpy cam put into his commodore - 3 weeks later he was defected because the police officer suspected modification (due to the idle creep) and sent him down to regency who then told him he could only keep the cams if it passes the emissions test.

No idea if he had the test done as I've heard that emissions tests arent cheap - just think its something to be wary of.

Like Damo said tho, they wont strip ur engine apart to see whats in it, but its really not hard to chuck a gas analyzer on the exhaust and see how its running...

-D

hmm ok but what do u mean by throwing a gas analyzer on the exhaust to see how its running? high emmisions from the cam? :S

hmm ok but what do u mean by throwing a gas analyzer on the exhaust to see how its running? high emmisions from the cam? :S

well im not a mechanic, but from what i understand, modding the cams changes the efficiency curve, ie it might burn richer at lower rpms but be geared for upper end power...

each car has a certain emissions target due to the standards of the day, and so regency sometimes use this as an excuse

a gas analyzer will not only tell the air fuel ratio but how many hydrocarbons are being generated and what type they are - again I don't know the details but like the others have said, forged internals will be fine - its more cam and ignition timing that changes the efficiency of the engine under certain conditions

this bloke with the v8 was pretty pissed off cause changing cams on his particular engine wasn't anywhere near as easy as doing a DOHC engine like an RB

-D

well im not a mechanic, but from what i understand, modding the cams changes the efficiency curve, ie it might burn richer at lower rpms but be geared for upper end power...

each car has a certain emissions target due to the standards of the day, and so regency sometimes use this as an excuse

a gas analyzer will not only tell the air fuel ratio but how many hydrocarbons are being generated and what type they are - again I don't know the details but like the others have said, forged internals will be fine - its more cam and ignition timing that changes the efficiency of the engine under certain conditions

this bloke with the v8 was pretty pissed off cause changing cams on his particular engine wasn't anywhere near as easy as doing a DOHC engine like an RB

-D

Regency don't do the emission test themselves so i dont think you really need to worry about it. my car passed and it idles at 1000rpm when it should only be 600rpm or so. If you fit a standard exhaust they wont be able to notice as easily.

a gas analyzer will not only tell the air fuel ratio but how many hydrocarbons are being generated and what type they are - again I don't know the details but like the others have said, forged internals will be fine - its more cam and ignition timing that changes the efficiency of the engine under certain conditions

Depending on the type of the piston used the dome design might lower/raise compression, it might also change the burn characteristics so that you get different emissions.

Most workshops will dodge something up for you though as they know regency will only check if the values are absurd.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...