Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

k well ill try explain this problem best i can

so engine is cold, i get in and drive it, i get maybe 50 meters from my house then under a light throttle, but still enough to increase rpm,

my car starts to spit, cough and lose power, then if you hold the throttle where it is it feels like it drops out all ignition and you can smell raw fuel

but if you put your foot to the floor it sputters some more and really sounds like its struggling then comes back to life and takes off once the rpm is high enough.

now i thought it was my bee r limiter, as it interferes with the signal for ignition from the crank angle sensor, but i took it out and still no difference,

the problem goes away once i get to running temp, ive checked my spark plugs, they're still like new and ive check wiring and plugs but nothing to fault there,

if anyones had this similar prob and has found the answer that'd be great

now i dont want people telling me to check my wastegate, bov or piping as i know without a doubt thats not the problem, its gota be a sensor, just dont wana go replacing

things and not getting anywhere

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250668-funny-little-prob-on-warm-up/
Share on other sites

k well i already got splitfires so that rules out coilpacks and coolant temp sensor and afm would control fuel up, when it cuts ignition, rpm doesnt drop it just cuts out all engine noise, so its not the same as flicking the key off but it sounds like the engine has been switched off, thats why its spinnin me out over what it could be

mmm water temp would only adjust fuel up for cold engine running, but its getting enough fuel

when the engine does its cut out crap it smells of unburnt fuel

but hey im wrong till ive tried i spose

starts fine, free revs fine, but you drive it for 20secs then the prob begins, sputter sputter engine loses power sounds like it cuts out but rpm remains stable

then this only lasts for 2 maybe 3mins then once it goes away the car is about half way to operating temp, almost points to a temp sig issue

i had a similar problem with a mates r32 , it ended up being afm . only difference is it would stall after running for about 2 min . also had a water temp sensor go on my ceff , it flooded it till it stalled if you didn't drive fairly hard (hard to do in peak hour traffic) . both of those problems were with an rb20 so this could just be a useless post :happy: but sounds like afm to me (rb20 and s1 rb25 share afm)

i had the same problem and turned out to be the AFM showing its age. when i switch it to MAP sensor (bypassing AFM) it works fine.

a cheap fix that MIGHT work is to re-solder the pins on the AFM (when you take the square panel off the top of the afm it exposes them) and see if it helps. if it does nothing then try swapping for a known working one then go from there.

i had a similar problem with a mates r32 , it ended up being afm . only difference is it would stall after running for about 2 min . also had a water temp sensor go on my ceff , it flooded it till it stalled if you didn't drive fairly hard (hard to do in peak hour traffic) . both of those problems were with an rb20 so this could just be a useless post :( but sounds like afm to me (rb20 and s1 rb25 share afm)

I am having this problem on my cefiro. where's the water temp sensor located?

mmm little problem with getting codes, the only wiring that comes off my ecu to my bcm, where a diag plug would be located is for basic sensors so getting a fault code out of it will be a little difficult

what injectors are you running?

if the latency is not set correctly and they are overfuelling by a milisecind or two then your plugs can be getting fouled on short trips.

go for a long drive and see if this clears it up...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...