Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am very confident I could pop each and every one of those 3 you have had on an Rb25 within a day , given a go at them :blush:

how exactly? without increasing the boost it'd be the same as every other day for the last year

not really worth it but myne made a touch more peak power on 15psi than it did on 13

how exactly? without increasing the boost it'd be the same as every other day for the last year

not really worth it but myne made a touch more peak power on 15psi than it did on 13

bolt on ebc so it actually holds 1bar till redline (big difference between getting to 1bar and then dropping boost as revs climb) and then take it to the local circuit on a sunny day. guarentee I'll get you 3 dead turbos before the end of the day.

It's the same bleating you get from some GTR owners who don't know better and it's also actually really a stupid way of increasing performance given the risk.

When the ceramic turbine lets go you can end up 'dusting/sanding' your piston bores with ceramic particles. There are again plenty of examples of 'damn I lost my turbo......wonder why my car is using more oil and compression is down?'. I had some very old GTR turbo's let go.No suprises, it did just that.

I'm not being a kill joy. You can still run a high 12 or low 13 1/4 with just 10-12psi in an R33 or R32 with one of these turbos.

I have.

Want more power?

Go and buy a buy a bigger turbo with a metal turbine easy fix.

When the ceramic turbine lets go you can end up 'dusting/sanding' your piston bores with ceramic particles.

I have only heard of this with GTRs, possibly because the twin design is more susceptible to allowing particles back up the exhaust headers. Does it happen with GTS-t's too?

I have only heard of this with GTRs, possibly because the twin design is more susceptible to allowing particles back up the exhaust headers. Does it happen with GTS-t's too?

The gtr's are more likely to get hurt but, the same risk is there.

So, judging by this thread, it is 100% true that the Series 2 R33 turbos do NOT Have a ceramic turbine, but rather have aluminium?

And therefore can be boosted higher than a Series 1 turbo?

I'm posing this more as a question, rather than a statement as I do not know the correct answer.

If someone can confidently confirm this, please go ahead.

Regards,

So, judging by this thread, it is 100% true that the Series 2 R33 turbos do NOT Have a ceramic turbine, but rather have aluminium?

And therefore can be boosted higher than a Series 1 turbo?

100% wrong. See my first post in this thread (#5).

no they both have a ceramic exhaust wheel. (the back one)

s1 has steel compressor wheel (the front one)

s2 has a "nylon" compressor wheel (the front one) which someone (trent i think...cbf looking) mentioned was actually aliminimum with a nylon component somewhere along the lines

12psi

stand alone ecu with aggressive tune

good tyres

pineapple, camber, castor kit

short shift kit

intercooler

good 3" turbo back exhaust

cold air intake

there wont be much on the street that can beat you in this setup

should make around 190-200rwkw

Hmm not sure about your area you live in Paul, but around here 200rwkw in a skyline just doesn't cut it (for a street car).

bolt on ebc so it actually holds 1bar till redline (big difference between getting to 1bar and then dropping boost as revs climb) and then take it to the local circuit on a sunny day. guarentee I'll get you 3 dead turbos before the end of the day.

i ask how you'd do it without increasing the boost and you say ur gna bolt on an ebc so the boost doesnt drop off, hence increasing the boost :)

probably never get driven with stock turbo again anyway, will have a gt30 within the next few days

i ask how you'd do it without increasing the boost and you say ur gna bolt on an ebc so the boost doesnt drop off, hence increasing the boost :(

probably never get driven with stock turbo again anyway, will have a gt30 within the next few days

If you say 1 bar we mean 1 bar do we not?

If you go around telling people that stock turbos can hold 1 bar all day, then neglect to tell them you didn't mean " 1 bar all the way to redline". They may own a skyline with an ebc and then on your good advice will lead to a nice dead turbo and possible engine damage.

Adding an ebc to 'hold 1 bar' is not "increasing boost" as far as this argument is concerned. It's 'holding boost'.

The GT30 will be fun. :D

I wouldn't bother running more than stock boost unless you get a powerfc or tune your factory ecu as you'll run into R&R issues pretty quick and the car will run like crap.

Since you're in NSW, come down to Sydney .. Toshi can remap your stock ecu for < $500 ie. fix up the AFRs and ignition timing. Much cheaper than a powerfc tune and will allow you to run as much boost as you feel is safe, i'd recommend no more than 11.5psi - that's what mine's set to but I have an R34 GTT.

  • 1 month later...

my car only has pod filter and a boost controller set to 10psi running over a year now. Making 150rwkw at least. Just had 9/12 manifold bolts replaced and turbo gasket replaced due to all of it being broken or cracked etc. Leaking heaps of air. Haven't dynod with problem fixed yet. But yeh. Initial duno was 150rwkw with just those mods. Hope that gives u some kinda indication.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...