Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock R33 Series 2 Turbo

MAFIA R33

By MAFIA R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
I am very confident I could pop each and every one of those 3 you have had on an Rb25 within a day , given a go at them :blush:

how exactly? without increasing the boost it'd be the same as every other day for the last year

not really worth it but myne made a touch more peak power on 15psi than it did on 13

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
how exactly? without increasing the boost it'd be the same as every other day for the last year

not really worth it but myne made a touch more peak power on 15psi than it did on 13

bolt on ebc so it actually holds 1bar till redline (big difference between getting to 1bar and then dropping boost as revs climb) and then take it to the local circuit on a sunny day. guarentee I'll get you 3 dead turbos before the end of the day.

It's the same bleating you get from some GTR owners who don't know better and it's also actually really a stupid way of increasing performance given the risk.

When the ceramic turbine lets go you can end up 'dusting/sanding' your piston bores with ceramic particles. There are again plenty of examples of 'damn I lost my turbo......wonder why my car is using more oil and compression is down?'. I had some very old GTR turbo's let go.No suprises, it did just that.

I'm not being a kill joy. You can still run a high 12 or low 13 1/4 with just 10-12psi in an R33 or R32 with one of these turbos.

I have.

Want more power?

Go and buy a buy a bigger turbo with a metal turbine easy fix.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
When the ceramic turbine lets go you can end up 'dusting/sanding' your piston bores with ceramic particles.

I have only heard of this with GTRs, possibly because the twin design is more susceptible to allowing particles back up the exhaust headers. Does it happen with GTS-t's too?

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
I have only heard of this with GTRs, possibly because the twin design is more susceptible to allowing particles back up the exhaust headers. Does it happen with GTS-t's too?

The gtr's are more likely to get hurt but, the same risk is there.

Astro Bear Veteran

Astro Bear

Posted
Posted

So, judging by this thread, it is 100% true that the Series 2 R33 turbos do NOT Have a ceramic turbine, but rather have aluminium?

And therefore can be boosted higher than a Series 1 turbo?

I'm posing this more as a question, rather than a statement as I do not know the correct answer.

If someone can confidently confirm this, please go ahead.

Regards,

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
So, judging by this thread, it is 100% true that the Series 2 R33 turbos do NOT Have a ceramic turbine, but rather have aluminium?

And therefore can be boosted higher than a Series 1 turbo?

100% wrong. See my first post in this thread (#5).

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

no they both have a ceramic exhaust wheel. (the back one)

s1 has steel compressor wheel (the front one)

s2 has a "nylon" compressor wheel (the front one) which someone (trent i think...cbf looking) mentioned was actually aliminimum with a nylon component somewhere along the lines

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
12psi

stand alone ecu with aggressive tune

good tyres

pineapple, camber, castor kit

short shift kit

intercooler

good 3" turbo back exhaust

cold air intake

there wont be much on the street that can beat you in this setup

should make around 190-200rwkw

Hmm not sure about your area you live in Paul, but around here 200rwkw in a skyline just doesn't cut it (for a street car).

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
bolt on ebc so it actually holds 1bar till redline (big difference between getting to 1bar and then dropping boost as revs climb) and then take it to the local circuit on a sunny day. guarentee I'll get you 3 dead turbos before the end of the day.

i ask how you'd do it without increasing the boost and you say ur gna bolt on an ebc so the boost doesnt drop off, hence increasing the boost :)

probably never get driven with stock turbo again anyway, will have a gt30 within the next few days

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
i ask how you'd do it without increasing the boost and you say ur gna bolt on an ebc so the boost doesnt drop off, hence increasing the boost :(

probably never get driven with stock turbo again anyway, will have a gt30 within the next few days

If you say 1 bar we mean 1 bar do we not?

If you go around telling people that stock turbos can hold 1 bar all day, then neglect to tell them you didn't mean " 1 bar all the way to redline". They may own a skyline with an ebc and then on your good advice will lead to a nice dead turbo and possible engine damage.

Adding an ebc to 'hold 1 bar' is not "increasing boost" as far as this argument is concerned. It's 'holding boost'.

The GT30 will be fun. :D

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't bother running more than stock boost unless you get a powerfc or tune your factory ecu as you'll run into R&R issues pretty quick and the car will run like crap.

Since you're in NSW, come down to Sydney .. Toshi can remap your stock ecu for < $500 ie. fix up the AFRs and ignition timing. Much cheaper than a powerfc tune and will allow you to run as much boost as you feel is safe, i'd recommend no more than 11.5psi - that's what mine's set to but I have an R34 GTT.

  • 1 month later...
ShiftyTys Rising Star

ShiftyTys

Posted
Posted

my car only has pod filter and a boost controller set to 10psi running over a year now. Making 150rwkw at least. Just had 9/12 manifold bolts replaced and turbo gasket replaced due to all of it being broken or cracked etc. Leaking heaps of air. Haven't dynod with problem fixed yet. But yeh. Initial duno was 150rwkw with just those mods. Hope that gives u some kinda indication.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...