Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks that would be great!

I'd be keen to hear more about lowering the engine. I know several RB30's have been put in at stockish heights, but everyone seems to do it differently. There's a market for bolt in mount kits, so everything needed to install RB30 to R32GTR in one package.

that guy simon has the worlds best kept secret on lowering the engine but he won't let the cat out of the bag

.I have 1 theory which I've discussed with another mechanic and would work

I heard of a trick using rb20 engine mounts which lowers it 10-15mm. Though dont know how accurate that is as I havent done it myself.

How much lower would the engine need to sit in order for the timing cover to not hit the bonnet bracing? Would 20mm drop be enough?

I heard of a trick using rb20 engine mounts which lowers it 10-15mm. Though dont know how accurate that is as I havent done it myself.

How much lower would the engine need to sit in order for the timing cover to not hit the bonnet bracing? Would 20mm drop be enough?

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth.

With all that, it only just touches by a whisper.

With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes.

I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth.

With all that, it only just touches by a whisper.

With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes.

I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

exactly what i did to mine - cut the bonnet brace above the front cams, took off the twin turbo badge & milled off the boss for the badge.

funnily though, i had to run the bonnet without the insulation as this was starting to rub the paint off my newly painted covers. that is how tight it was under there!

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth.

With all that, it only just touches by a whisper.

With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes.

I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

I was thinking if you could achieve say half inch of lowering engine towards sub frame via engine mount mods and then lowering sub frame half inch off chassis rail then you would be pretty damn close and both of those things are very straight forward and have probably been done before. But as you said you would need to look at drive shaft clearances and angles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...