Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For my run, that calculator is out by 100kw.

What happened to the nitto engine in mercurys gtr?

I heard a few different stories, one was bent rods in 1 and 6 after running on the dyno with a headgasket leak.

I heard a few different stories, one was bent rods in 1 and 6 after running on the dyno with a headgasket leak.

This is what i heard to. Also heard it happened before that 1072hp run :wacko: .

Also heard there is a nitto rb32 being built for when the current bottom end gives way.

I'm not really an expert on the subject but if you take out an auto and put in a manual, aren't you going to make more HP at the wheels?

This would also coincide with your higher trap speed

of course..lol, but doesn't the moroso calculator work out weight shifted power at the "engine"?, engine power will still be the same

rwhp will be different, in my old car it would make another 50-60rwhp i would have thought manual, hence me asking the question..

guessing it doesnt account for that

cheers

darren

Marko ur time and mph is very impressive for that power

My best is 11.30 @ 127.5mph with 340rwkw

And my 32 Gtr got weighed during engineering process and was 1620kg i think (full interior, spare wheel, etc)

With reduced weight it is closer to my power but still 70kw over the mark

Is it possible you actually had 500hp? And half a tank of fuel? Can you send me a PM with your setup so I can see what sort of power you should/would make?

my cat isn't too healthy at the moment unfortunately :( - i'm not going de-cat, so should i just get one of those 100cell 5" venom ones? haven't bought a cat since my last GT-T and that was years ago... just some little 3" catco one....

some SAU searching brings up Venom a lot but some uber german brand called HJS gets a bit of a mention...

don't know if there have been any major cat improvements over the years, bit out of the loop with these things....

EDIT: forgot about the ballistic cats... i do remember those from a while back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...