Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep, pretty hard to actually race dyno graphs.......

My tuner told me once the only figure he cares about is the one on the podium.

Because race car!

This is my point. So really dyno tuning is for tuning not rattling off numbers. Real track numbers are the only ones that matter. So why do people waste their time asking for builds based on power numbers. Every car that I have ever modified I have never really cared about anything else except how it performs when I drive it or race it. Don't know. Must be getting old.

This is my point. So really dyno tuning is for tuning not rattling off numbers. Real track numbers are the only ones that matter. So why do people waste their time asking for builds based on power numbers. Every car that I have ever modified I have never really cared about anything else except how it performs when I drive it or race it. Don't know. Must be getting old.

You can still base your mods/builds on power figures, but when you are using the dyno as the comparative tool rather than the track, the reality can sometimes be skewed. If you race against someone and they are 0.1 second faster around the circuit and you make X amount of hp, you then know you've either gotta make X + 50, get better suspension or tune the suspension or just get better at driving.

You're not old, you're just wiser. We are slowly educating our customers as much as possible but it's a slow task. If they ever leave here with a low power figure on the print out, we always tell them to drive it and call back if they are disappointed.....or run it down the 1/4 and compare it to their previous result.

It's just common sense really

After much reading I think the only way to settle this is a "Rate my fun Car Thread"

Show how much fun your having in your skyline and then it gets rated from 1 - 10 by your peers.

Maybe we could factor in how many kilometers the car does a year to show the true useableness of said car.

I'm pretty sure the 400kw thread can be locked now.

402kw 10.81et 131.36mph. As per 2wd dyno dynamics dyno.

So is it safe to say that to run these numbers this is the power you need?

Maybe we need to start multiple threads 9 sec cars, 10 sec cars, 11sec cars so people can post their times, mods and driving style. Just a thought

So why do people waste their time asking for builds based on power numbers. Every car that I have ever modified I have never really cared about anything else except how it performs when I drive it or race it. Don't know. Must be getting old.

We tend to get used to what general effect x.kw on a familiar dyno has on the way a car goes. Case in point, I have been helping out with the tuning on a mates S14 track car - he has got weight down to around 1090kg and he figured that 250-270kw @ hubs on the local hub dyno would make more than sufficient to have an awesome amount of fun with it. From there we were able to work out that sweet - a "350hp" rated turbo, a stock SR20DET and E85 should work together fairly well together to provide somewhere in that territory. Again, it wasn't to create claims to show off on forums - it was just more the knowledge that the power figure on that dyno should be able to allow for a fairly reliable but quick car.

Who cares if it would be maybe "only" 230-240kw on a Dyno Dynamics dyno or 300kw on a dyno set up to inflate figures? We know that it would be a figure that it can be competitive and reliable on the track in the type of racing he wants to do as well as be fun to drive. This all comes down to the "Dyno is a tuning too" thing, you can compare between results on that same dyno and fine tune different aspects to suit your requirements.

We tend to get used to what general effect x.kw on a familiar dyno has on the way a car goes. Case in point, I have been helping out with the tuning on a mates S14 track car - he has got weight down to around 1090kg and he figured that 250-270kw @ hubs on the local hub dyno would make more than sufficient to have an awesome amount of fun with it. From there we were able to work out that sweet - a "350hp" rated turbo, a stock SR20DET and E85 should work together fairly well together to provide somewhere in that territory. Again, it wasn't to create claims to show off on forums - it was just more the knowledge that the power figure on that dyno should be able to allow for a fairly reliable but quick car.

Who cares if it would be maybe "only" 230-240kw on a Dyno Dynamics dyno or 300kw on a dyno set up to inflate figures? We know that it would be a figure that it can be competitive and reliable on the track in the type of racing he wants to do as well as be fun to drive. This all comes down to the "Dyno is a tuning too" thing, you can compare between results on that same dyno and fine tune different aspects to suit your requirements.

Spot on. its a tuning tool and the only relavence to its figures is when it needs to be used to modify the engine management computer to optimise engine efficiency..nothing to do with comparing to another dyno down the road.

Also in a street car engine power does not necessarily relate to how quick your car is. An example is when I was active on the ls1 forums there were cars running 0.5 seconds quicker down the quarter with 50 rwkw less, why, because of hi stalls and diff gears and rear suspension setups and all streetable not radical stuff AND a good healthy tune. In other words there cars were efficient for their purpose and drivers knew how to drive. Higher dyno HP really means nothing to me.

If I had to get an engine built (which I am) I say to my mechanic I want to run low 10s in my daily. He should tell me what he is going to do and how much and when. When I get it back and after run in or whatever he tells me to do.....I want it running low 10s and I don't care if its got 300 400 or 500awkw.

I know its a rant but hopefully it helps steer the younger crew into the older ways of thinking....pipe dream maybe

Standard weight 32 or 33 GTR / GTST that runs 129-130 mph has 400rwkw

That's based on everything from 1400-1450kg (3100-3200lb)

@ 1550kg (3400lb) it needs to be about 125mph

And lets not forget.. Driver could be anywhere from 70kg through to 120kg.. Tanks of fuel or empty changes things by another possible 50kg..

(not disagreeing with you by the way - just pointing out even this has a bearing on it)

My car with 120.8rwkw on Unique autosports dyno ran 14.58 @ 95mph (97.6MPH Best). 1450kg 300zx. Injector Duty Cycle at 85% approx 270cc.

Edited by Super Drager

And lets not forget.. Driver could be anywhere from 70kg through to 120kg.. Tanks of fuel or empty changes things by another possible 50kg..

(not disagreeing with you by the way - just pointing out even this has a bearing on it)

Most definitely. Half a tank of fuel changes your mph by 1. Another 25kg around the belly can cancel that out too haha.

So us fat bastards need to race on 1/4 tank to be just as fast

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
×
×
  • Create New...