Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fuel cooler is mounted at front of car . In front of radiator, behind grill. A/c condenser has been removed oil cooler is also mounted in its location. I didnt like the oil cooler mounting in front of front wheel..I'll try track down some pics

Fuel cooler is mounted at front of car . In front of radiator, behind grill. A/c condenser has been removed oil cooler is also mounted in its location. I didnt like the oil cooler mounting in front of front wheel..I'll try track down some pics

Yea I've got my oil cooler in front of my front wheel, I don't think it's very effiencent there

My 83/75 results is a page or 2 back

The fmw has a different wheel design yea

My 32 gtr was rebuilt with the following parts and was run in and tuned by Sean at EFI Performance

Engine:

Rb26 (2.6l)

Cosworth forged pistons (87mm)

Manley conrods

R34 gtr crankshaft ( new from Nissan)

Acl race bearings

Arp rod, head, main bolts

Reimax billet oil pump gear

Tomei 1.5 mm head gasket

Kelford 282 cams

Manley valve springs with ti retainers

Sump baffles

Oil cooler

Balanced and blueprinted

Os giken twin plate button clutch rebuilt by NPC

Machine work done by chilton engineering

Engine assembled by Dan at ERD

Greddy plennum

Greddy 100mm pipe kit

100mm intercooler

Turbonetics billet gtk 1050 turbo with .86 twin scroll rear housing

Turbosmart 60mm wastegate

2.5 inch screamer pipe

6 boost exh manifold hpc coated with egt ports

4 inch dumpipe

3 inch decat pipe

3 inch TItanium cat back exhaust

Magnafuel 750 pro tuner fuel pump ( 2000hp)

Bosch 044 (lift pump)

7 litre surge tank

Fuel cooler

Aeromotive fpr

Bosch 2200 cc injectors

All braided hoses

Splitfire coil packs

Power fc dejetro

Car made 650hp at 26 psi (485kw)

I will post a pic of Dyno chart soon.

The ignition system is at limit at 26 psi

I have just finished installing ls2 truck coils and an ati balancer. Next tune the boost is being increased and rev limit is being increased.

Aiming for 700hp + on 30 psi.

Will post results when it is sorted.

Thanks, no port work on head just reconditioned with valve springs, retainers, shims etc.

Running on Caltex eflex atm. This setup needs to be run on drum E85 to get more out of it. The motor/turbo can quite easily handle 40psi. Not too confident on the consistency of pump ethanol. However, this is still a street car and 650hp should be enough for the std gearbox atm...lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...