Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does the car run? if so leave it in and run the engine at least once or twice a weak. easier way to make sure things dont seez up. also is ur car driveable? if so may even be an idea to just drive round the block once or twice a week.

I go away with work for months on end(between 4 and 6 months usually) and have been told to replace the engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid and replace the coolant, then put the car on stands without the hand brake on and have a full tank of fuel and clean and wax the car before i go, on return i do a pre start check(oils and fluid), turn over the car with out the ignition wire a couple of times to get some oil in the head then start the car, go for a drive and let it get to operating temp then replace all the oils and fluids again. Was told starting the car every week or so is bad as the oils drain right down and constantly starting the car is worse than not starting at all.

But that's me,LOL.

I go away with work for months on end(between 4 and 6 months usually) and have been told to replace the engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid and replace the coolant, then put the car on stands without the hand brake on and have a full tank of fuel and clean and wax the car before i go, on return i do a pre start check(oils and fluid), turn over the car with out the ignition wire a couple of times to get some oil in the head then start the car, go for a drive and let it get to operating temp then replace all the oils and fluids again. Was told starting the car every week or so is bad as the oils drain right down and constantly starting the car is worse than not starting at all.

But that's me,LOL.

Dude your kidding me right?

A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it.

When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

Dude your kidding me right?

A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it.

When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

AFAIK fuel goes stale, if so then thats not about it :P

Other than that check oil and water to see if they are still ok and at the right levels :cool:

Edited by mitch_SR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...