Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does the car run? if so leave it in and run the engine at least once or twice a weak. easier way to make sure things dont seez up. also is ur car driveable? if so may even be an idea to just drive round the block once or twice a week.

I go away with work for months on end(between 4 and 6 months usually) and have been told to replace the engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid and replace the coolant, then put the car on stands without the hand brake on and have a full tank of fuel and clean and wax the car before i go, on return i do a pre start check(oils and fluid), turn over the car with out the ignition wire a couple of times to get some oil in the head then start the car, go for a drive and let it get to operating temp then replace all the oils and fluids again. Was told starting the car every week or so is bad as the oils drain right down and constantly starting the car is worse than not starting at all.

But that's me,LOL.

I go away with work for months on end(between 4 and 6 months usually) and have been told to replace the engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid and replace the coolant, then put the car on stands without the hand brake on and have a full tank of fuel and clean and wax the car before i go, on return i do a pre start check(oils and fluid), turn over the car with out the ignition wire a couple of times to get some oil in the head then start the car, go for a drive and let it get to operating temp then replace all the oils and fluids again. Was told starting the car every week or so is bad as the oils drain right down and constantly starting the car is worse than not starting at all.

But that's me,LOL.

Dude your kidding me right?

A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it.

When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

Dude your kidding me right?

A car sitting without movement doesn't destroy itself magically like some of you may think. Full tank of fuel to stop condensation and disconnect the battery. The car can sit there for ages, dont worry about it.

When you go to start it, crank it over a couple of times to build oil pressure before you start it, that's about it.

AFAIK fuel goes stale, if so then thats not about it :P

Other than that check oil and water to see if they are still ok and at the right levels :cool:

Edited by mitch_SR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...