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I found a little info on the 300ZX forums but I'm not a member there and they do have 3litre engines.

Some of us gtr owners also run 3litre engines :(

In my personal experience, the ultimate street setup for a 2.6litre are the -5s (hks gtss) and for the 3litre the -10s (hks gtrs) if u want midrange and top end performance without sacrificing either

Some of us gtr owners also run 3litre engines :(

In my personal experience, the ultimate street setup for a 2.6litre are the -5s (hks gtss) and for the 3litre the -10s (hks gtrs) if u want midrange and top end performance without sacrificing either

I'm sure its accidental, but your spreading incorrect information!

-5's are not HKS GTSS, they are HKS 2530 equivalent.

-9 are the HKS GTSS equivalent, which I believe you meant above. Have you run these turbo's? Or did you actually run -5's?

Personally I'm happy with 300 something kilowatts with good response on the RB26 for street/track, I'd also like to do E85 at some point, but I have not found the money to upgrade turbo's and related components yet :)

where does a hks 2510 sit in the equation?

from what i can find and my lack of turbo knowledge i think they rate somewhere between the -5 and -9?????

anyone know?

It's similar to HKS GT-SS (Garrett -9s), 2510 are old technology compared to GT-SS so will be bit laggier than GT-SS.

Never able to run these on mine (sold them due to motivation being lost).

  • 5 weeks later...

May I make the distinction - we are talking about these turbos:

(as listed on garrett website)

The -5 :

GT2860R 707160-5

The -7:

GT2860R 707160-7

The -9:

GT2859R 707160-9

NOTE^ GT28*59*

NOT:

not a GT2860R -9.

GT2860R 739548-9

This is essentially a GT2860RS (you'll note the cartridge numbers are the same).

So when people are referring to -9's, they mean the GT2859R -9, not the GT2860RS-9 disco potato.

Some confusion in this thread with turbos names/numbers/chras.

Good read guys,

I'm wanting to upgrade my R33 GTR turbos, from stock to something with a bit more balls. Happy to do minimal mods to engine (eg. cams, injectors etc), already got power fc.

Anyway not getting the -5's, because had a too big turbo in my r32 gtst previously and HATED waiting for boost to come on, much rather have something more responsive.

Just wanting high 200's for the GTR, nothing to swish, just bit of guts. Which is better -7's or -9's? Can't really see what the differences will be between them? Couldn't be too much. Don't really want to be running stupid high boost- just something safe.

Cheers, Ash

The compressor wheels in the GTSS/AKA GT2859R 707160-9 are slightly smaller in diameter than the GT2860R family .

I've never had a -9s cartridge to measure its compressors tip height but I think you can be sure that HKS had Garrett brew up something that works . They are after all a specific RB26 application unit .

I don't know why more people don't use these -9 turbos in street GTRs , the exact HKS unit (GTSS) from Garrett at a Garrett price . The only thing HKS did with them was add waste gate actuators which is why you can buy these turbos with or without Garrett ones .

IMO the reason why these turbos work so well is that they help a smallish low compression ratio 2570cc six drag a tonne and a half of Skyline around . Boost for torque is important when the engines capacity is marginal for the weight of a car and these 707160-9s I'm told make for more torque everywhere than any OE RB26 turbocharger .

Again IMO if you're serious about having a usable torquey street GTR you have two choices , basically use these turbos or throw an RB30 at it . Deluxe option is probably RB30 + 2 GT2530s , got a V8 that revs then .

Just on those old HKS spec GT2510s , they use the basic Garrett TB25 turbine like S15 BB turbos have but add the same 60.1mm 63 trim compressor that the GT2530s use .

In those days it was considered that using a smaller sized turbine behind a known good compressor was the way to make a turbo more responsive . They did the same with 2540s and 3040s .

The better later thinking is to size the compressor to match the turbines drive characteristics and we now have the GTSS and GTRS which replaced the 2510 and 2540 dinosaurs .

A .

I have the -9s in my R32 gtr with all supporting mods fuel, exhaust,adj cam wheels, pfc, no head work, cooler, split fire for ignition, etc on 18psi i made 362rwkw max out the turbos.

Response is fantastic it might not be as quick as the -7s but all there by 3600rpm and holds hard all the way to 7200rpm. minor lag but mid and top no sacrifice or drop of.

Really for the street i agree these are the ultimate and nothing better when a wrx driver leaps ahead thinking hes got you and your -9s kick in a moment later and all he remembers is my beautiful big red dinner plate rear lights pulling away into the distance.

i had the -7s originally and they responded quickly but ran out of puff to early and thats where i wanted them to pull hard to redline but they drop of leaving a sour taste in your mouth of disappointment, everybody has their opinions i not saying mine is the correct but having had both -9s all the way if i had done some head work the -5s i would consider but these are alot laggier for the street so the -9s will suit light track work better i gather as well.

Hope this helps anyone trying to choose which avenue to go.

cheers,

Dave

I have the -9s in my R32 gtr with all supporting mods fuel, exhaust,adj cam wheels, pfc, no head work, cooler, split fire for ignition, etc on 18psi i made 362rwkw max out the turbos.

Response is fantastic it might not be as quick as the -7s but all there by 3600rpm and holds hard all the way to 7200rpm. minor lag but mid and top no sacrifice or drop of.

Really for the street i agree these are the ultimate and nothing better when a wrx driver leaps ahead thinking hes got you and your -9s kick in a moment later and all he remembers is my beautiful big red dinner plate rear lights pulling away into the distance.

i had the -7s originally and they responded quickly but ran out of puff to early and thats where i wanted them to pull hard to redline but they drop of leaving a sour taste in your mouth of disappointment, everybody has their opinions i not saying mine is the correct but having had both -9s all the way if i had done some head work the -5s i would consider but these are alot laggier for the street so the -9s will suit light track work better i gather as well.

Hope this helps anyone trying to choose which avenue to go.

cheers,

Dave

Dave,

Do you have dyno graph by any chance?

It's quite a power figure from pair of -9s.

Cheers

Grant

Yes i do grant but im hopless at putting up images on this forum if you happy with an iphone pic glady sent it to you quickly send me you number, might i add i also ran quarter mile time of a lazy 11.6 at 123Mph i went there with near bald tyres stupid me but the Mph indicates im making the power for a low 11sec. If i wasnt making decent power i doubt i could run that speed, im no pro an amatuer but thet all say your Mph dictates real power of engine so she must be whats my dyno print out is i guess.

cheers,

Dave

Lookguys i didnt post to brag my figures just my experience of what i got on the rollers now i know different dynos can cheat but but ill dig up my dyno chart and dig up the WSID docket and the Mph is there.

98 ron thats it like i said no pro an amatuer but times and Mph doesnt lie i dont want to get into a big debate alot of guys bulls*** about figures im just a normal bloke relaying what i have seen and done dont mean to offend anyone but if its going to get bitchy ill just keep to myself and keep on enjoying reading the great info on this forum.

cheers,

Dave

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