Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

123 is probably closer to around 340rwkw - but either way it's a good result. Bit better 60ft and it'll be much closer to the 11 end :down:

Interesting figure on that boost, you sure they are -9's though?

Only reason i ask is those figures seem more representative of -5's on a factory head from all the results in the RB26 thread and other threads (they are pretty much identical)

Once you spend a bit of coin on the head/motor etc then 20psi seems to deliver around 380rwkw give/take which would also correlate with your results :D

yeah you have a point i might add its a rebuilt motor freshened up with forged Mahle pistons and bearings pretty much a nissan engine with all the bolt on goodies to boot.

The -5s are they not a 350hp rated turbo i cant remember i just payed the bill and went by what i was told was the next size up. From what i have seen and heard the -5 seem alot laggier than how my gtr responds and from arond 2 yrs ago when i did it all the -9 where the imbetween of the -7 and -5 .

Unless the slight increase in cubic capacity has hit that figure easier then that may be the casw due to the slight hone and bore when the engine was rebuilt i dont know just a gtr lover who has spent shit loads on my prized possesion.

cheers,

Dave

Edited by Mr GTR-32

The -5s are rated @ 360hp turbo

The -9s are around 320hp turbo

The above are iff memory serves me correct of course haha, been a while since ive got digging. I think we might be onto something here :D

It would be approx 2.5-3 years ago the -9's were not a listed part. So it might be possible.

Also, the -7s & -9's are basically the same response. -9's just make a bit more power :)

Again not saying your result is wrong or anything as your MPH is indeed close. It's an interesting discussuion now you've said you purchased 350hp turbos? :down:

I have found my dyno graph and wsid docket grant will post these up some time when he gets them from me im hopeless at uploading pics etc haha, I defeinately have -9s R31 Nismoid checked my purchase docket as i purchased these through just jap and they are 320hp rated from Garrett.

Slightly slower Mph than i stated as it was a while ago but not far of i got a a 121.64Mph or 196Klms still good for 11 flat if i learn how to launch and go there with good tyres not crap lol.

cheers,

Dave

Hi all,

Dave have sent couple of MMS of the dyno graph and timeslip to me not long ago.

So there it is, you'll need to tilt your head for the graph :/ .

post-13169-1277429048_thumb.jpg

post-13169-1277429082_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Grant

p.s. Man, this is nice curve there.

I have found my dyno graph and wsid docket grant will post these up some time when he gets them from me im hopeless at uploading pics etc haha, I defeinately have -9s R31 Nismoid checked my purchase docket as i purchased these through just jap and they are 320hp rated from Garrett.

Slightly slower Mph than i stated as it was a while ago but not far of i got a a 121.64Mph or 196Klms still good for 11 flat if i learn how to launch and go there with good tyres not crap lol.

cheers,

Dave

Thanks for checking :D

Given the dyno graph is a tad "high" by the IT correction, you have around 320-330rwkw and MPH backs that up nicely.

Good result for 18psi with those turbos!

You are also loosing 2psi towards the top end - you might want to get boost control looked into as it would make it hold even harder to redline if it didn't start falling away after around 5300rpm :miner:

Yeah boost drops of i am running an eboost 2 what would i need to do to hold the boost better change EBC which i dont want to do they are sp damn expensive.

Well i hope this backs up my experiences with the -9s they are awesome, next time round its head work and some -5s been told with some minor head porting and good cams they to hopefully wont be to laggy. But thats a while away for now ill stick with the sharp response of what ive got.

cheers,

Dave

Yeah boost drops of i am running an eboost 2 what would i need to do to hold the boost better change EBC which i dont want to do they are sp damn expensive.

Well i hope this backs up my experiences with the -9s they are awesome, next time round its head work and some -5s been told with some minor head porting and good cams they to hopefully wont be to laggy. But thats a while away for now ill stick with the sharp response of what ive got.

cheers,

Dave

What's the pre-load set to on the waste gates? Are they set to the same pressure?

Are you driving around on the same boost setting all the time?

Straight from turbosmart's website:

the maximium boost pressure (set point), the spool up rate of the turbocharger (gate pressure) and the reaction time of the controller (sensitivity).

You should be able to help level it out using the gate pressure and the sensitivity.

I'm looking at fitting a set of -5's, and I have a question on the side:

My car is already tuned at 18psi, power fc. When I install the -5's am I able to drive the car at WOT within the 10-18 psi bracket before a new tune?

I know that I should (and obviously will) get another tune, but I want to get some cams first before putting $$ into dyno. Just putting the question out there.

If it's related to airflow, instead of boost (AFM's) - Will it drive at WOT using lower boost since (my pure example) the total airflow will still be within the tuned range?

(The way I figured is as long as I stay within the table on the power fc (not too much rpm or air flow) and everything is still safe?)

Edited by GTRPowa

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

Hence the other half of my question, if I run at a lower boost, whatever amount needed that I'm not going off the charts on my Air Flow resolution on my tune, then it's ok for a temporary basis?

How about you just take it easy like any other person would?

Kepe rev's below 3000-3500rpm until you have time to get it all checked correctly? Best course of action in my book :blush:

Better yet don't drive it at all :blush: is it worth the risk really ?

Also as for -5's with a built motor and some go fast bits I see no reason why 430-460AWKW can't be acheived :blush:

Edited by Nee-san
I'm not familiar with the eboost 2 - but if there are some gain settings to alter, that would likely help.

Talk to your tuner mate, they would have the best idea about it if they set it up initially :blush:

Post 18 of this thread shows my car running an eboost 2. It has rpm input so you should be able to get it to hold full boost all the way to the redline. Mine does. Like Ash says, your tuner should be able to fix this and you shouldn't need another EBC.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ds-t280020.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...