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123 is probably closer to around 340rwkw - but either way it's a good result. Bit better 60ft and it'll be much closer to the 11 end :down:

Interesting figure on that boost, you sure they are -9's though?

Only reason i ask is those figures seem more representative of -5's on a factory head from all the results in the RB26 thread and other threads (they are pretty much identical)

Once you spend a bit of coin on the head/motor etc then 20psi seems to deliver around 380rwkw give/take which would also correlate with your results :D

yeah you have a point i might add its a rebuilt motor freshened up with forged Mahle pistons and bearings pretty much a nissan engine with all the bolt on goodies to boot.

The -5s are they not a 350hp rated turbo i cant remember i just payed the bill and went by what i was told was the next size up. From what i have seen and heard the -5 seem alot laggier than how my gtr responds and from arond 2 yrs ago when i did it all the -9 where the imbetween of the -7 and -5 .

Unless the slight increase in cubic capacity has hit that figure easier then that may be the casw due to the slight hone and bore when the engine was rebuilt i dont know just a gtr lover who has spent shit loads on my prized possesion.

cheers,

Dave

Edited by Mr GTR-32

The -5s are rated @ 360hp turbo

The -9s are around 320hp turbo

The above are iff memory serves me correct of course haha, been a while since ive got digging. I think we might be onto something here :D

It would be approx 2.5-3 years ago the -9's were not a listed part. So it might be possible.

Also, the -7s & -9's are basically the same response. -9's just make a bit more power :)

Again not saying your result is wrong or anything as your MPH is indeed close. It's an interesting discussuion now you've said you purchased 350hp turbos? :down:

I have found my dyno graph and wsid docket grant will post these up some time when he gets them from me im hopeless at uploading pics etc haha, I defeinately have -9s R31 Nismoid checked my purchase docket as i purchased these through just jap and they are 320hp rated from Garrett.

Slightly slower Mph than i stated as it was a while ago but not far of i got a a 121.64Mph or 196Klms still good for 11 flat if i learn how to launch and go there with good tyres not crap lol.

cheers,

Dave

Hi all,

Dave have sent couple of MMS of the dyno graph and timeslip to me not long ago.

So there it is, you'll need to tilt your head for the graph :/ .

post-13169-1277429048_thumb.jpg

post-13169-1277429082_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Grant

p.s. Man, this is nice curve there.

I have found my dyno graph and wsid docket grant will post these up some time when he gets them from me im hopeless at uploading pics etc haha, I defeinately have -9s R31 Nismoid checked my purchase docket as i purchased these through just jap and they are 320hp rated from Garrett.

Slightly slower Mph than i stated as it was a while ago but not far of i got a a 121.64Mph or 196Klms still good for 11 flat if i learn how to launch and go there with good tyres not crap lol.

cheers,

Dave

Thanks for checking :D

Given the dyno graph is a tad "high" by the IT correction, you have around 320-330rwkw and MPH backs that up nicely.

Good result for 18psi with those turbos!

You are also loosing 2psi towards the top end - you might want to get boost control looked into as it would make it hold even harder to redline if it didn't start falling away after around 5300rpm :miner:

Yeah boost drops of i am running an eboost 2 what would i need to do to hold the boost better change EBC which i dont want to do they are sp damn expensive.

Well i hope this backs up my experiences with the -9s they are awesome, next time round its head work and some -5s been told with some minor head porting and good cams they to hopefully wont be to laggy. But thats a while away for now ill stick with the sharp response of what ive got.

cheers,

Dave

Yeah boost drops of i am running an eboost 2 what would i need to do to hold the boost better change EBC which i dont want to do they are sp damn expensive.

Well i hope this backs up my experiences with the -9s they are awesome, next time round its head work and some -5s been told with some minor head porting and good cams they to hopefully wont be to laggy. But thats a while away for now ill stick with the sharp response of what ive got.

cheers,

Dave

What's the pre-load set to on the waste gates? Are they set to the same pressure?

Are you driving around on the same boost setting all the time?

Straight from turbosmart's website:

the maximium boost pressure (set point), the spool up rate of the turbocharger (gate pressure) and the reaction time of the controller (sensitivity).

You should be able to help level it out using the gate pressure and the sensitivity.

I'm looking at fitting a set of -5's, and I have a question on the side:

My car is already tuned at 18psi, power fc. When I install the -5's am I able to drive the car at WOT within the 10-18 psi bracket before a new tune?

I know that I should (and obviously will) get another tune, but I want to get some cams first before putting $$ into dyno. Just putting the question out there.

If it's related to airflow, instead of boost (AFM's) - Will it drive at WOT using lower boost since (my pure example) the total airflow will still be within the tuned range?

(The way I figured is as long as I stay within the table on the power fc (not too much rpm or air flow) and everything is still safe?)

Edited by GTRPowa

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

Hence the other half of my question, if I run at a lower boost, whatever amount needed that I'm not going off the charts on my Air Flow resolution on my tune, then it's ok for a temporary basis?

How about you just take it easy like any other person would?

Kepe rev's below 3000-3500rpm until you have time to get it all checked correctly? Best course of action in my book :blush:

Better yet don't drive it at all :blush: is it worth the risk really ?

Also as for -5's with a built motor and some go fast bits I see no reason why 430-460AWKW can't be acheived :blush:

Edited by Nee-san
I'm not familiar with the eboost 2 - but if there are some gain settings to alter, that would likely help.

Talk to your tuner mate, they would have the best idea about it if they set it up initially :blush:

Post 18 of this thread shows my car running an eboost 2. It has rpm input so you should be able to get it to hold full boost all the way to the redline. Mine does. Like Ash says, your tuner should be able to fix this and you shouldn't need another EBC.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ds-t280020.html

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